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Sunday Wall
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Wave, The T,S 

Arch Traverse 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 435
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 9, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Pink.

Description 

This is a pretty awesome route. It is a long, arching route with some awesome moves on generally good rock. The dike that you follow can have some small crystals that may break off. Start up a bushy corner to get high enough and traverse left to a bolt. From here, use slings on every bolt in the beginning until you head straight up. Some powerful moves gets you a couple rests and a long slabby traverse to an anchor.

Location 

It is 200' left of Smooth Reach. Look for an obvious, light white, arching dike with bolts.

Protection 

All QDs.


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By Matt Rauen
Oct 12, 2013

The first bolt is about 30 feet up (unless I missed something) on some easy climbing (when done from a variation start to the crack left of the author's start). Didn't see any bolts on author's lower 20 feet, so I took the alternate to the left. Could be a little uncomfortable for some with short arms to reach out and clip first bolt. The long traverse to last bolt is an understatement. It's not a necessarily hard traverse but is approx 20 feet over to the bolt. Would be a big fall if you slipped.... A bolt in between last bolt and the one before would be a great addition. Overall, a great climb with some fun moves and good exposure that keeps you on your toes. Would have given 4 stars had it not been for the dangerously distant last bolt. Thanks!
The approach on the left with all the bushes seeme...
The approach on the left with all the bushes seemed safer to us than the unbolted highball (unless we missed the bolts) marked as the actual route to the right. If you feel so inclined, a stopper and a cam can be placed to limit the effect of gravity.
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Oct 14, 2013

Glad you had a good time on the route. I would caution that the majority of these routes, presumably put up by Beyer, that I have posted have such run outs as you noted and sometimes quite longer. Enjoy!