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Holdout
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19th Nervous Breakdown T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Arch Stanton 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FFA: Todd Skinner, early '80s
Page Views: 487
Submitted By: Brian Scoggins on Oct 2, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Can you see the line? Arch Stanton.
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is perhaps the most distinctive line on the Holdout's southeast face.

From an easy chimney start, jam and lieback up an ever steepening flake past bolts to a thin face finish and (as of September 2011) shiny new chains.


Location 

The incredibly distinctive, right-arching flake on the southeast face of the Holdout. From the campground, follow trails past the dungeon, then follow climber's trail along the base of the southeast face. Rappel or lower from chains.


Protection 

Hands and fingers for before, micro gear for between, and quickdraws on the bolts.



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By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Oct 2, 2011

Full disclosure: I did not free this route. I attempted to aid it, and was not skilled enough to actually complete the route. However, it's a (mostly) bolted crack that can provide an interesting challenge if you're sick of crack climbing, and you're up to it. There's only 2 places on the entire climb that a free-climber might want some additional pro: at the very beginning, and between bolts 2 and 3.

As an aid climb, it has some pretty awkward positions to begin with, and apparently upon its very first ascent went at A5. Cleaning would suck; we down-aided rather than came in from the top.

Also, on history: an account of the first free ascent can be found in the beginning of Big Wall Climbing by Paul Piana, recounting how Skinner's acquisition of RPs allowed the route to be freed on clean gear. Piana later retrobolted the climb, and added the final bolts for the face-climbing finish.

By Tom Kelley
Feb 9, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

For more full disclosure, Skinner and Piana did this route to the end of the arch in the early '80s and named it "Arch Stanton." Back then it was a gear lead with stuff placed under the arch and there were no bolts above the arch at that time (it ended at the terminus of the arch).

Paul Piana placed the bolts above the arch in the undercling section (to reduce rope drag?), added bolts in the headwall, and finished the route to the top in the early '90s renaming it "Anhilator Blueprint." The route is still rated 5.11d, apparently due to Vedauwoo politics. I think the complete route is much harder. I've never had much trouble getting to the end of the arch, but that is where the fun begins.

As with Currey's, this climb involves a long traverse, and it is best to have a second who can follow it without incurring a lot of brain damage. Just the same, I highly recommend this route if you're in the area with an equally adept partner who is willing to flip for the lead.