Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Bell Sports Lumen Bike Helmet

$64.99 25% off

$48.74

at AlsSports

6    more...
Kintaro Climbing Shoe - Men's

$148.95 29% off

$104.27

at CampSaver

56    more...
Patagonia Infant Down Sweater Bunting

$139.00 30% off

$97.30

at Patagonia

27    more...
5.10 Anasazi Lace-Up Climbing Shoe

$164.95 20% off

$130.95

at USOutdoorStr

409    more...
Skywalker 2 Helmet - Orange

$59.95 20% off

$47.96

at CampSaver

3    more...
1" Tubular Webbing - Teal

$139.95 25% off

$104.96

at CampSaver

31    more...
Giro Monica Bike Glove - Women's

$39.99 25% off

$29.99

at AlsSports

4    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arc of a Diver 
Arch 
Arch Direct 
Baby 
Billy Shears 
Bloody Bush 
Bloody Mary 
City Lights 
Crusty Waffles 
Drunkard's Delight 
Easy Overhang 
Fetus 
Frog's Head 
Jean 
Maria 
Maria Direct 
Maria Redirect 
Morning After 
Night Fall 
Pas de Deux 
Patty Duke 
Precarious Perch 
Rock and Brew 
Rusty Trifle 
Sixish 
Son of Easy O 
Sundown 
Trusty Rifle 
Twisted Sister 
Wrist 

Arch Direct 

5.9

   
884 page views
Good page?   

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Bill Goldner, 1962
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Nov 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: A snapshot on the way up. The way we did it was to...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Area closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on Arch, then climb the crack that goes directly through the center of the roof.


Location 

Go up the trail to the base of Strictly From Nowhere, then left 100 feet or so to Arch.


Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack



Comments on Arch Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By "H"
From: Garden of Gods
Mar 21, 2006

This can often be wet and stay wet for a little while after rain.
Fun route though.

By Jim Sweeney
Nov 4, 2009

Is this the Arch variation known as Wick's Banana?

By Steven Cherry
Jul 26, 2010

The guidebook warns of loose rock on Wick's Banana and, having followed it once a few years ago, I would agree.

It's worth noting that there's a second crack through the overhangs further right, in the neighborhood of the exposed step-across on Arch. This is probably the 5.9- crux of Billy Shears and has no loose rock at all. It can be done as a direct finish to the first pitch of Arch, leaving you very close to a fixed anchor, and I would say it's worth doing. (The guidebook gives an NR (not recommended) to Billy Shears, which might be true.)

By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Aug 7, 2010
rating: 5.9 PG13

Not just a lot of loose rock, but dirt, sands, saps and all the other junks. If more people climb this route, it would be a lot cleaner. There is a lose dinner plate size flake right below the roof so be extra careful. The piton looks rusty, clip at your own risk. The climb itself is decent, worth doing if you just want to get a last climb in while you are in the area.

By ntableman
Jun 9, 2012
rating: 5.9+ PG13

There are a lot of oddly sketch rocks up there, but this is a heck of a lot of fun. There are lots of spots right above the roof for pro. The rest of the climb is messy. I would warn people below. If you freak out, you can exit stage right and go home with your tail between your legs. :)