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c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Arch Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Bill Goldner, 1962
Page Views: 1,327
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Nov 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: A snapshot on the way up. The way we did it was to...

Description 

Start on Arch, then climb the crack that goes directly through the center of the roof.


Location 

Go up the trail to the base of Strictly From Nowhere, then left 100 feet or so to Arch.

Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack


Photos of Arch Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Wick's Banana
Wick's Banana

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By "H"
From: Manitou Springs
Mar 21, 2006

This can often be wet and stay wet for a little while after rain.
Fun route though.
By Jim Sweeney
Nov 4, 2009

Is this the Arch variation known as Wick's Banana?
By Steven Cherry
Jul 26, 2010

The guidebook warns of loose rock on Wick's Banana and, having followed it once a few years ago, I would agree.

It's worth noting that there's a second crack through the overhangs further right, in the neighborhood of the exposed step-across on Arch. This is probably the 5.9- crux of Billy Shears and has no loose rock at all. It can be done as a direct finish to the first pitch of Arch, leaving you very close to a fixed anchor, and I would say it's worth doing. (The guidebook gives an NR (not recommended) to Billy Shears, which might be true.)
By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Aug 7, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Not just a lot of loose rock, but dirt, sands, saps and all the other junks. If more people climb this route, it would be a lot cleaner. There is a lose dinner plate size flake right below the roof so be extra careful. The piton looks rusty, clip at your own risk. The climb itself is decent, worth doing if you just want to get a last climb in while you are in the area.
By ntableman
Jun 9, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

There are a lot of oddly sketch rocks up there, but this is a heck of a lot of fun. There are lots of spots right above the roof for pro. The rest of the climb is messy. I would warn people below. If you freak out, you can exit stage right and go home with your tail between your legs. :)
By Pawel
From: NJ
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I like this one a lot. Yes, careful of one or two flakes that look sketchy below the roof. But good pro in the roof before the crux move and immediately after above the lip too.