Arch Direct 5.9
| 884 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Dick Williams, Bill Goldner, 1962 |
| Submitted By: | Dana Bartlett on Nov 4, 2009 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: A snapshot on the way up. The way we did it was to...
Add Photo Printer View
Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description Start on Arch, then climb the crack that goes directly through the center of the roof.
Location Go up the trail to the base of Strictly From Nowhere, then left 100 feet or so to Arch.
Protection Standard 'Gunks rack
By "H" From: Garden of Gods Mar 21, 2006
| This can often be wet and stay wet for a little while after rain. Fun route though. |
By Jim Sweeney Nov 4, 2009
| Is this the Arch variation known as Wick's Banana? |
By Steven Cherry Jul 26, 2010
| The guidebook warns of loose rock on Wick's Banana and, having followed it once a few years ago, I would agree. It's worth noting that there's a second crack through the overhangs further right, in the neighborhood of the exposed step-across on Arch. This is probably the 5.9- crux of Billy Shears and has no loose rock at all. It can be done as a direct finish to the first pitch of Arch, leaving you very close to a fixed anchor, and I would say it's worth doing. (The guidebook gives an NR (not recommended) to Billy Shears, which might be true.) |
By divnamite From: New York, NY Aug 7, 2010 rating: 5.9 PG13
| Not just a lot of loose rock, but dirt, sands, saps and all the other junks. If more people climb this route, it would be a lot cleaner. There is a lose dinner plate size flake right below the roof so be extra careful. The piton looks rusty, clip at your own risk. The climb itself is decent, worth doing if you just want to get a last climb in while you are in the area. |
By ntableman Jun 9, 2012 rating: 5.9+ PG13
| There are a lot of oddly sketch rocks up there, but this is a heck of a lot of fun. There are lots of spots right above the roof for pro. The rest of the climb is messy. I would warn people below. If you freak out, you can exit stage right and go home with your tail between your legs. :) |
|