|1,012 page views|
Start on Arch, then climb the crack that goes directly through the center of the roof.
Go up the trail to the base of Strictly From Nowhere, then left 100 feet or so to Arch.
Standard 'Gunks rack
From: Garden of Gods
Mar 21, 2006
This can often be wet and stay wet for a little while after rain.
Fun route though.
|By Jim Sweeney|
Nov 4, 2009
Is this the Arch variation known as Wick's Banana?
|By Steven Cherry|
Jul 26, 2010
The guidebook warns of loose rock on Wick's Banana and, having followed it once a few years ago, I would agree.
It's worth noting that there's a second crack through the overhangs further right, in the neighborhood of the exposed step-across on Arch. This is probably the 5.9- crux of Billy Shears and has no loose rock at all. It can be done as a direct finish to the first pitch of Arch, leaving you very close to a fixed anchor, and I would say it's worth doing. (The guidebook gives an NR (not recommended) to Billy Shears, which might be true.)
From: New York, NY
Aug 7, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
Not just a lot of loose rock, but dirt, sands, saps and all the other junks. If more people climb this route, it would be a lot cleaner. There is a lose dinner plate size flake right below the roof so be extra careful. The piton looks rusty, clip at your own risk. The climb itself is decent, worth doing if you just want to get a last climb in while you are in the area.
Jun 9, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
There are a lot of oddly sketch rocks up there, but this is a heck of a lot of fun. There are lots of spots right above the roof for pro. The rest of the climb is messy. I would warn people below. If you freak out, you can exit stage right and go home with your tail between your legs. :)