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Arch Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Patrick Munn, Dominic Eisinger--2002
Page Views: 623
Submitted By: Chris Duca on May 30, 2010
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Though this is often thought as a variation to pitch 2 of Pilgrim's Progress and Mayflower, I thought this pitch to be good enough to warrant a separate entry.

    Climb the 1st pitch of Mayflower or Pilgrim's Progress to the comfortable ledge with a chain anchor. Climb out right passing the vertical hand crack in black rock (pitch 2 of Snow Blue 10a R). Continue slightly up right, clipping the the actual anchor for Pilgrim's Progress and the two bolts at the arrowhead flake. Climb up and into the undercling flake. Continue underclinging back across left with poor feet, but great gear. Clip a high bolt above the flake, and upon reaching the end, move into the broken left-facing corner (shared with the end of Mayflower's 2nd pitch--5.9+) and a rest. A manky old pin and a solid nut placement protect the final, funky moves to the chain anchors above.


    Location 

    The arching undercling finger crack above the first pitch of Mayflower.


    Protection 

    A small set of nuts, several slings/draws, and a single rack from a green Alien to a #1 Camalot is all you'll need to protect this route comfortably.



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