Arch Crack  5.6

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet FA:  Chip Salaun, 1979 Submitted By:  Jim McGuire on Jan 1, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

P2 of Arch Crack.

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

As the name implies this climb follows the leftward curving crack that eminates from the dihedral on the right side of the face.

P1. Start at the bottom of the big, left facing dihedral and thrutch (not to be equated with unpleasant climbing), up the chimney/offwidth to a projecting rib of rock. One may cross over right of this and continue up more of the same to the top, Right Chimney 5.6. At this same level, the Arch Crack [the second crack] curves off to the left to intersect with Tennis Shoe Tango and a belay, 140 ft. 5.5.

P2. Continue up the nicest portion of the Tango crack with great hand jams, 5.6. The difficulty jumps a grade at the headwall crack (5.7) with more great jamming to the top. Alternatively, walk right, under the precariously perched cap of granite above, and descend down the back.

This is a fine climb with incremental increases in jamming difficulty, good protection and as mentioned above includes the best climbing of both routes.

Protection 

Standard rack plus extra larger pieces as most of the crack is hand, fist and offwidth.