Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Arch Canyon
Black Diamond Stinger Crampon

$209.95 25% off

$157.46

at Backcountry

1    more...
Metolius Master Cam #3 Orange

$59.99 25% off

$44.99

at AlsSports

1    more...
Outdoor Research Warrant Glove

$138.95 39% off

$83.37

at DeptOfGoods

1    more...
Deuter Futura 22 Backpack - 1350cu in

$108.95 29% off

$76.27

at Backcountry

37    more...
Callaway Forged Golf Wedge 60 Degrees

$149.99 26% off

$109.99

at AlsSports

1    more...
Singing Rock Crux Climbing Harness

$49.99 27% off

$36.49

at AlsSports

3    more...
Outdoor Research Stormcell Gloves

$118.95 25% off

$89.19

at AltrecOutlet

51    more...
Petzl Hammer for QuarkNomicErgo

$49.95 25% off

$37.46

at Backcountry

   more...
 more Dirtbag Deals

Select Area...
Dreamcatcher Tower 
Dreamspeaker 
Fortress, The 

Arch Canyon 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 37.5881, -109.7466 Map
Page Views: 14,786. Good page?   
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: USBRIT on Nov 29, 2005

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
 Printer View

Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 


BETA PHOTO: Dreamspeaker from the canyon rim rappel point.

Description 

Arch Canyon is without doubt one of the most beautiful and spectacular canyons in the SW desert. Everywhere you seem to look on its 900' side walls are ancient Indian houses and granaries, some in as perfect condition as the day they were built. There always seems to be water in the stream that flows down the bed of the canyon, providing water for many large trees. Arch Canyon to date has at least eight climbed towers - some have more than one route, and two of the best known are Dreamspeaker and Cathedral Arch Tower. Ten miles up the four wheel drive road a canyon branches off to the left, and this forms Texas Canyon. Two miles up this canyon are two more towers, Lone Star and the massive and famous 800' Texas Tower. A climb in Arch and Texas Canyons is an experience every desert climber should savor.


Getting There 

To reach the towers one has to either rap in from the rim or take the four wheel drive up the canyon bottom. The entrance to Arch canyon bottom is just over 18 miles to the west of Blanding. From Blanding, go 2 miles south on Rt 191 to the junction of Rt 95 (Hanksville, Lake Powell). On Rt 95, drive 14.2 miles to a right turn on a good dirt road up a wide valley. Go 2.5 miles, where one reaches the entrance to Arch. From here the ride up Arch Canyon requires at least a 4x4 short wheel base high clearance truck, or preferably an ATV. About 5 miles up, one will come to Dreamspeaker and Dreamcatcher towers. Its about a total of 9 miles from the entrance to the junction with Texas Canyon (Arch continues to the right), and here is a beatiful camping area. This also is the location of Cathedral Arch Tower and others. This is the end of the road - to reach Texas and Lone Star Towers is about a two mile hike.

A popular way to reach the towers in Arch and Texas is by rapping in via the west rim, leaving fixed lines. Great going in, but tough coming back out! To reach the Rim Road, drive a further 5.2 miles from the valley turn off to a road on the right with BLM signs and a fee station. To rap into Dreamspeaker and Dreamcatcher, drive up this good dirt road (car friendly) for 3.1 miles. The road gets a bit rough here, but this is where one camps. A few minutes walk to the right reaches the rim and fine views of both towers. To reach the area to rap and walk into Texas Canyon, the junction of Arch and Texas Canyons, and the other towers, continue with four wheel drive up the short rough section for a total of about 6.8 miles from Rt 95, and take a short road on the right that leads to the rim and good camping.

More information and descriptions of many of the climbs are available in Desert Rock IV by Eric Bjornstad. There is also information and descriptions of Texas Tower on this site under the area Texas Canyon.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Arch Canyon:
Broken Dreams   5.9 C2     Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade IV   Dreamcatcher Tower
North Face   5.9+ C2     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 280 feet, Grade III   Dreamspeaker
South Face   5.11b R     Trad, 200 feet, Grade III   Dreamspeaker
Poop Chute   5.11b/c A3 PG13     Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 750 feet, Grade IV   The Fortress
Browse More Classics in Arch Canyon

Featured Route For Arch Canyon
Paul Irby on pitch 1 of the South Face of Dreamspeaker in 2003.

South Face 5.11b R  UT : Moab Area : ... : Dreamspeaker
Very cool route on mostly good rock. The leader should be solid since there are definitely 5.10 do not fall sections, though the 5.11 crux is very safe. The approach is heinous - scramble up slabs on the north side to get to the ledge between Dreamspeaker and Dreamcatcher. The route climbs the obvious splitter in the picture.Pitch 1 - traverse easily 10 feet right, and head up an overhanging blocky section with less than perfect rock. This is 5.10 and the R section. It used to be protected ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Arch Canyon Slideshow Add Photo

BETA PHOTO
Looking into Arch Canyon from the rim with the thin Dreamspeaker Tower on the right and the fat Dreamcatcher Tower on the left

BETA PHOTO: Looking into Arch Canyon from the rim with the thi...

Paul Ross and Cam Burns at the summit on the FA of Dream Catcher Tower

Paul Ross and Cam Burns at the summit on the FA of...

Cathedral Arch Tower.

Cathedral Arch Tower.

Wow! What an amazing awe-inspiring place to be. The rock we climbed left a sour taste in my mouth, I think I need to start smaller next time around. This rock seems it might take some getting used to.

Wow! What an amazing awe-inspiring place to be. Th...

We attemped to put a new line up the right facing dihiedral in the center. I left with my tail between my legs.

We attemped to put a new line up the right facing ...

A couple towers right next to the camp site

A couple towers right next to the camp site

A view of our attempted line.

A view of our attempted line.

Eric on P1 of 1....

Eric on P1 of 1....

P2? GULP! No thank you!

P2? GULP! No thank you!

That tower is crazy! If the rock is anything like what we climbed I don't think I could do it.

That tower is crazy! If the rock is anything like ...

Looking up Arch Canyon from the Dreamspeaker area

Looking up Arch Canyon from the Dreamspeaker area

TNT bouldering in Arch Canyon

TNT bouldering in Arch Canyon

Cathedral Arch

Cathedral Arch

Small ruin near Dream Catcher and Dream Speaker.

Small ruin near Dream Catcher and Dream Speaker.