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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
ANC Mandela 6a+ 
Galileo 6b+ 
Liberate Gorbatschow 6a+ 
Pangea 6a 
Poste Restante 6c 
Rastarfari 6a+ 
S.T.N.R.N.R. 6a+ 
Unsorted Routes:

Arcegno 


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Administrators: Dan Flynn, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Dan Flynn on Dec 13, 2011

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Settore Guffeto may be closed! See description.


Settore Guffeto

Description 

Grippy, wood-grained gneiss. Easy access. Stout climbing… unfortunately also mostly on private land, and there are intermittent access issues resulting. There are six sectors listed in the SAC guidebook, but the biggest and baddest is the Guffeto sector, which is next to a summer house for a cranky dude. If you end up here, keep the shitting in the woods and hollering to a minimum.

More current access information may be here
www.fuorivia.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=25910
Or search for 'arrampicata arcegno guffeto'. "Closed" in this case means the landowner unscrewed the first 2-3 bolts and took the hangers off, but most of the climbs are still protectable on gear.

44 climbs, 6a - 8c. Some really nice looking 7a-7a+ routes. Topo PDF from bigwall.ch.


Getting There 

Bus accessible, short ride from Locarno. Or drive down through the narrow stone alleys of the town and find a parking spot along the road. Approach to the Guffeto wall involves a few sections of ascending on fixed chains, flip flops not advised!


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Arcegno:
Pangea 6a   5.10a     Sport, 70 feet   
Liberate Gorbatschow 6a+   5.10b     Sport, 100 feet   
ANC Mandela 6a+   5.10b     Sport, 100 feet   
S.T.N.R.N.R. 6a+   5.10b     Sport, 90 feet   
Galileo 6b+   5.10c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   
Poste Restante 6c   5.11a     Sport, 50 feet   
Browse More Classics in Arcegno

Featured Route For Arcegno
Wicked fun

S.T.N.R.N.R. 6a+ 5.10b  International : Europe : ... : Arcegno
6a+Similar slab start as Rastafari, but then immediately gets a lot more fun. Really, really fun moves, up through a blocky overhang. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


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Arcegno topo

Arcegno topo