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Location: 46.1636, 8.7446 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Dan Flynn, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dan Flynn on Dec 13, 2011
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Settore Guffeto may be closed! See description.


Grippy, wood-grained gneiss. Easy access. Stout climbing… unfortunately also mostly on private land, and there are intermittent access issues resulting. There are six sectors listed in the SAC guidebook, but the biggest and baddest is the Guffeto sector, which is next to a summer house for a cranky dude. If you end up here, keep the shitting in the woods and hollering to a minimum.

More current access information may be here
Or search for 'arrampicata arcegno guffeto'. "Closed" in this case means the landowner unscrewed the first 2-3 bolts and took the hangers off, but most of the climbs are still protectable on gear.

44 climbs, 6a - 8c. Some really nice looking 7a-7a+ routes. Topo PDF from bigwall.ch.

Getting There 

Bus accessible, short ride from Locarno. Or drive down through the narrow stone alleys of the town and find a parking spot along the road. Approach to the Guffeto wall involves a few sections of ascending on fixed chains, flip flops not advised!

Climbing Season

For the Switzerland area.

Weather station 1.6 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Arcegno
Galileo, 6b+

Galileo 6b+ 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  Europe : Switzerland : Arcegno
Brilliant. Monkey business from start to finish.Crux is a long pull early on, to gain the overhang from the roof.......[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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