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Arcadia Management Area

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Arcadia Management Area Rock Climbing 

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Location: 41.5767, -71.7095 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 43,127
Administrators: M Sprague, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M Sprague on Feb 18, 2012
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The Lost Boulder


Arcadia Management Area is RI’s largest Management Area, almost 14 thousand acres, located in the southwest part of the state. It is bisected north and south by Rt 165 and contains areas around Mt. Tom and Escoheag. The area offers a bit of top roping, mainly moderates at Mt Tom’s Main Wall and the old test piece at the Halloween outcrop, but is mostly a boulderer’s haunt. Much of it is scattered, but some of the best individual boulders of RI are found here, such as the Lost Boulder.
In early RI history Arcadia was a thriving farming community. As you explore the forest, you will find lots of evidence; cellar holes, stonewalls, historical cemeteries, stone cutting and old roads. We can only imagine what boulders were there before they disappeared, split up to make the foundations, hearths and small mills. For an example of the boulder splitting techniques, you should check out the Hudson Boulder and its line of hand drilled holes running through the middle of it for feather and wedges. Thankfully for us, they never finished splitting this one and the holes make a boulder problem. The area’s fields and pastures are now reforested and covered with dirt roads and mountain bike paths.
It is likely that earlier local climbers visited, but by the 1970sand 80s Mt. Tom was certainly getting attention, notably by the Rhody Loadies, who bouldered and TRed lines up to hard 12 and V7. Since then, the highly developed Lincoln Woods pulled most of the attention from South County, but recently a new wave of cleaning and exploration is bringing life back to the area. Excellent new boulders have just recently been found and undoubtedly more are on the way.
Being a Multiuse Area, climbers will be sharing the woods with hikers, mountain bikers and hunters, so be sure to be respectful, and also wear at least 200 square inches of orange during hunting season.

Getting There 

From Providence, go south on Rt 95 to exit 5 to put you on Rt 102 east. This will bring you to Rt 3. Take a right onto Rt 3 south, then a right again onto 165 heading west, crossing back under Rt 95. For parking, see the individual areas.

Great Swamp Press sells a really good map for exploring the area or for mt biking

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.5 miles from here

104 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',29],['2 Stars',49],['1 Star',21],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Arcadia Management Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Arcadia Management Area:
Dana's Highball   V1-2 5     Boulder, 6'   The "Found" Boulder
Drive By   V3 6A     Boulder   The "Lost" Boulder
Tricycle (Roadside Traverse Right)   V3 6A PG13     Boulder, 25'   Mt. Tom : RoadSide Wall
Decode   V3+ 6A+     Boulder, 10'   Mt. Tom : RoadSide Wall
Summit or Die   V4 6B     Boulder   The "Lost" Boulder
Temperance   V5 6C     Boulder, 14'   The "Found" Boulder
Hroom   V5 6C     Boulder, 14'   The "Found" Boulder
Porcelain Hook Slide   V5 6C     Boulder, 1 pitch, 12'   The Penny Hill Boulders
Heaven (Roadside Direct)   V5+ 6C+ PG13     Boulder, 25'   Mt. Tom : RoadSide Wall
Treehugger   V7 7A+     Boulder   The "Found" Boulder
Notochord   V7 7A+     Boulder   The "Lost" Boulder
Arete Sit   V7 7A+     Boulder   Escoheag : The Escoheag Boulder
Spectacle   V7 7A+ PG13     Boulder, 18'   Mt. Tom : RoadSide Wall
bill's monologue   V8-9 7B+     Boulder, 12'   Escoheag : The Overhangs
Ground Zero   V10 7C+     Boulder   The "Lost" Boulder
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Arcadia Management Area

Featured Route For Arcadia Management Area
Rock Climbing Photo: a few moves into Spectacle

Spectacle V7 7A+ PG13  Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : ... : RoadSide Wall
The left departure from the Tricycle/Heaven sit. Move right Hand up onto the sloping lip, keeping left down on underclings until you get too spread out. Pop up to a shallow dish deep in the break, match, move left on improving edges until you can reach the sharp jug/block at the top of Firecracker Crimps....[more]   Browse More Classics in Rhode Island

Photos of Arcadia Management Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ah, the joys of hunting for boulders in South Coun...
Ah, the joys of hunting for boulders in South Coun...
Rock Climbing Photo: Trail Map
Rock Climbing Photo: Trail Map
Rock Climbing Photo: Another big private cluster with shot on site acce...
Another big private cluster with shot on site acce...

Comments on Arcadia Management Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
6 days ago
There is a fairly large (by RI standards) cliff in the woods north west of Breakheart Pond. I would think that boulderers would find it interesting. The crux is finding it. It is much easier to find in the winter than when leaves are on the trees. If you want directions message me.

Rock Climbing Photo: Breakheart cliff
Breakheart cliff
By M Sprague
From: New England
6 days ago
Interesting. I have scoured pretty well to the south and east of the pond and only found a few very marginal boulders, but have not looked to the NW yet. About how far from the pond is it, if you don't mind?
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
5 days ago
This shows the directions to get there. It also shows routes we led on gear but there are some overhanging potential boulder problems on the left (south) edge of the cliff. A mountain bike is the best way to get there.
By M Sprague
From: New England
5 days ago
Ah, OK, thanks. That is exactly where I was thinking it must be after looking at a topo map. If I finish work early enough today I'll take a run over there and see how it looks for bouldering.

There are a few mini crags like this in the Carolina Management Area along the Meadowbrook tr. Chris Smith Showed me one years ago and we did some highball bouldering there. Rescrubbed up and it would be a decent little local spot. If Chris can remember any names or exact lines (I can't), I'll post them up.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
5 days ago
I climbed on a small cliff off of Meadowbrook trail many years ago. It is not actually in the Carolina Management area. It is on private land just north of Kenyon Hill Trail. That's the only one I know of in that area.
By M Sprague
From: New England
4 days ago
That must be another one that I have not seen yet. The one Chris and I played around on was south of Kenyon Hill Tr.

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