After two pitches of interesting dihedral climbing, start into the crux traverse pitch. From here, climb a squeeze chimney and continue to the top on beautiful knobs and cracks. The rock quality varies throughout the route, but is generally good but flakey.
From the toe of the Parisian Buttress, hike up along the wall to your left until you reach a long, right-facing dihedral. Climb up 30 ft of easy 5th class to reach the base of the route.
Descend from the top of the buttress by two 100 ft rappels off the north side. An optional third rappel from a tree gets you to the ground, or downclimb a bushy 3rd class gully.
Standard Rack. Doubles from .4 to 3". Single 4" piece optional. Set of nuts. Total of 6 lead bolts. Few fixed anchors.
|By Richard Shore|
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First two pitches in the dihedral are stunning - fun and stout 5.9 liebacking. P4 squeeze chimney really sucks the fun out of the first half, though, and above the rock quality deteriorates quickly. P6-9 is some of the most mind-bending 5.5-5.7 I've ever climbed. Extreme exposure on the thin arÍte with runout gritty knobs that feel like they could blow at any moment. OK route - I can't give this more than 2 stars because of rock quality. It MIGHT clean up a bit with traffic, but lets face it - nobody climbs anything at the Portal except Bony Fingers...
|By Frank K|
From: Bishop, CA
May 25, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Thanks for the input! I hope y'all enjoyed the route, nice photos! It could be a fun day to do the first three pitches of arc de triomphe and unknown face climb to nowhere.