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Parisian Buttress
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Arc de Triomphe T 
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Arc de Triomphe 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, 1200', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Reed Harvey, Frank Klein
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,011
Submitted By: Reed Harvey on Jul 12, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: view of first pitch belay

Description 

After two pitches of interesting dihedral climbing, start into the crux traverse pitch. From here, climb a squeeze chimney and continue to the top on beautiful knobs and cracks. The rock quality varies throughout the route, but is generally good but flakey.


Location 

From the toe of the Parisian Buttress, hike up along the wall to your left until you reach a long, right-facing dihedral. Climb up 30 ft of easy 5th class to reach the base of the route.

Descend from the top of the buttress by two 100 ft rappels off the north side. An optional third rappel from a tree gets you to the ground, or downclimb a bushy 3rd class gully.


Protection 

Standard Rack. Doubles from .4 to 3". Single 4" piece optional. Set of nuts. Total of 6 lead bolts. Few fixed anchors.



Photos of Arc de Triomphe Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at first pitch
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at first pitch
Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo
The 4th pitch squeeze
The 4th pitch squeeze
Amy Ness leading P1
Amy Ness leading P1
View of the 2nd pitch belay.
View of the 2nd pitch belay.
The final summit ridge. Sweet!
The final summit ridge. Sweet!
2nd pitch belay. 3rd pitch traverses under big roof
BETA PHOTO: 2nd pitch belay. 3rd pitch traverses under big roo...
Amy Ness finishing P2
Amy Ness finishing P2
Summit ridge
Summit ridge
Amy Ness topping out P4
Amy Ness topping out P4
Comments on Arc de Triomphe Add Comment
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By Richard Shore
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

First two pitches in the dihedral are stunning - fun and stout 5.9 liebacking. P4 squeeze chimney really sucks the fun out of the first half, though, and above the rock quality deteriorates quickly. P6-9 is some of the most mind-bending 5.5-5.7 I've ever climbed. Extreme exposure on the thin arÍte with runout gritty knobs that feel like they could blow at any moment. OK route - I can't give this more than 2 stars because of rock quality. It MIGHT clean up a bit with traffic, but lets face it - nobody climbs anything at the Portal except Bony Fingers...

By Frank K
From: Bishop, CA
May 25, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Thanks for the input! I hope y'all enjoyed the route, nice photos! It could be a fun day to do the first three pitches of arc de triomphe and unknown face climb to nowhere.