Don't be overly intimidated by this route. Oh, it's everything it appears from the ground, but the roof is actually pretty casual.
The initial dihedral is classic hands and/or layback. The upper part is much wider, but there are lots of big face holds after the offwidth section.
If you have a big-bro, the place for it is out at the lip of the roof. Try to avoid putting a cam in the crack in the roof, as the rope has a tendency to pull into the crack and wreak havoc with any camming device by either slipping behind it or driving it deeper into the crack. It's almost better to run it out than to place a big cam there.
This is a great route fo rhte grade, it will make you work for it and will leave you with a climbing experience that you won't forget.
This route is located on the east face of Tower Rock. It can be identified as a distinctly classic looking dihedral capped by a roof, with a wide crack exiting to the right and continuing up an acute dihedral.
Hand sized and bigger. The lower crack works best with cams and the upper section works good with hexes. The lip of the roof is best protected by a big-bro (not sure which size) or alternately, layback the OW and keep your rope out to the left of the crack if you place a cam inside.
There are bolt anchors.
The roof and off-width.
Into the offwidth. Mediocre .4 placement to the ri...
Megan looking up at the roof
Sweet crack that has good gear placements. Ledge a...
|By John Shultz|
From: Osaka, Japan
Jul 13, 2010
Great stuff! I love this route. The corner is beautiful. The moves are all there. Don't think I brought anything big for pro and was fine.
|By Miles H|
Oct 18, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Amazing Classic Climb. Great hands up starting crack.
Pro:Standard rack (Mostly larger: #1s & up) With a #4 extended midway out the roof. Couple extra #2s.
|By Alex Whitman|
Sep 2, 2011
I climbed this with a #3 Camelot as my biggest piece. I would not recommend this. I placed it tipped out in the roof where it almost immediately walked far enough in that it opened and fell out. This was my last piece of gear I could fit till the very very top, aka soloing. You will want at least a #4 maybe 2.
Aug 29, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
i did it with only a #3 and it was fine. Amazing route!
|By Jon Kulikowski|
Feb 4, 2013
This is one of my favorite routes of the grade. As far as protection goes, here's my beta:
2-3 #1 Camalots for the initial crack, extending the top one with a double-length runner.
#3 Camalot vertically in the constriction, extended with single-length runner.
#.75 or #1 Camolot in horizontal pocket on face just below lip, extended with single-length runner.
#3 Camalot at the top of the wide crack.
Optional: #2 Camalot 3' above last piece.
Doing this instead of using a big piece in the wide section will prevent you from blowing the gear when you pass it.