Arachnid Mesa 5.10 A4
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, 900 feet, Grade V |
| Consensus: | 5.10 A4 [details] |
| FA: | Brian Povolny, Dave Evans, and Todd Gordon, Nov., 1983 |
| Submitted By: | toddgordon on May 8, 2007 |
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Arachnid Mesa, Looking down on bivi ledge, from pi...
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It is illegal at the present time to climb in Canyon de Chelly or elsewhere on the Navajo Indian Reservation Closed. MORE INFO >>>
It is presently illigal to climb on the Navajo Indian Reservation. These climbs are listed here for historical purposes only.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a long climb. It took everything we had to piece this climb together. I don't think this climb has had a 2nd ascent. Maybe some modern hot shots can blaze up the thing , but we are just plain folk, and this was one BIG-ASS adventure for us. I will give details of the actual climbing in the comments section. The Arachnid Mesa is huge, awesome, scary, and magical.
Location This mesa is located in Canyon De Chelly, just behind Spider Rock.
Protection Everything you got;...pins, RURPs, bat hooks, cams, stoppers, slings, lots of wide pro, patience, luck, desire, the spirit of adventure, and determination.
Dave Evans near the summit. Photo by Todd Gordon.
| Todd Gordon at bivi. Photo: Todd Gordon collection...
| Gear used on the climb. Photo by Todd Gordon.
| Dave Evans and Todd Gordon on top of Arachnid Mesa...
| The 200 foot off width section. Arachnid Mesa. P...
| Todd Gordon on ptich 4. Photo; Todd Gor...
| Arachnid Mesa. Photo; Todd Gordon
| Arachnid Mesa. Photo: Todd Gordon
| Dave Evans on the 9 rappels down. Photo@SEMICOLON...
| At the base. Photo; Todd Gordon
| Brian Povolny and Todd Gordon on the Summit. Pho...
| Dave Evans belays on one of the wide pitches. Pho...
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| Comments on Arachnid Mesa |
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By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California May 9, 2007
| O K...here goes. Pitch one; start with a shoulder stand, then 7 bolts and one piton in a bolt ladder that leads to a wide crack to a ledge (5.10 A2). Pitch 2; Up a wide crack to a sling belay. at one point, climbing out outside the wide crack on thin seams to the left of the crack.. Some bat hooks too. (5.10 A3/A4). Pitch 3; Continue up the wide crack (some loose sections) a few more bat hooks, to a big ledge. (5.10 A3/A4). Pitch 4 ; A2 cams to a small roof, above the roof, tension traverse (right)off pins to cracks in a pink colored headwall. Continue up cracks to a sling belay on the left. Pitch 5 ; Up more crack systems to an alcove with all sorts of scary-looking loose balanced blocks above you. Pitch 6; instead of going up through the loose balanced blocks, tunnel through (squeeze) about 20-25' to the left like a mole to a huge chimney system, and a nice bivy spot. ..Belay here. (short pitch). Pitch 7 climb up chimney (5.8),..then chimney/walk/tunnel/squeeze forward INTO the bowells of the formation;...WAY back in there......(It's bizarre...). Pitch 8.....tunnel/climb/chimney some more until you pop into a circular "room/cave" with a window looking out......Pitch 9; Climb out of the chimney (finally) into the light of day (5.9 slot or 5.9 face to the left)and climb anothe 30 feet to anchors (on top). Unrope and walk to high point of the mesa. There is a description of the first ascent of this climb in an old Ascent Magazine. The rock and climbing on this route is not the best in the world; it;s sandstone, and there are long sections of wide cracks and chimneys. The route and adventure of this experience is top notch. It's a long, involved, challenging, scrappy route to the top of a huge mesa that has seen few feet, in a wonderful, magical place. |
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