Aquarius

Aquarius is an excellent route that can be done in one long pitch. 60m ropes will barely reach! The route is straight forward WI4 climbing, and has one bit of vertical ice that goes on for about 5m.

As the season wears on, the top of the route gets more and more sun and will melt out first. It can still be climbed with 4 or 5 meters of bare rock showing, and can be protected on the left with a #3 camalot.

The bowl at the top of the route is Recital Hall, and you'll be able to see Fearful Symmetry. You'll have to walk up into the bowl and look around right to see Rainbow Serpent.

From the bottom of the Big Hill, head across the flats and take a left on a well-defined track on a berm. Before the end of the berm, turn of to the right and drive along side, in order to avoid a steep, rutted drop-off at the end. At the end of the berm, turn right, then left (toward South Ghost) for a short way, and then right on a well-traveled track that takes you into the Devil's Gap. Continue to a signed parking area at the Banff Park Boundary. It is illegal to drive past this point.

From the parking area, head northwest toward the frozen river and then hike past Malignant Mushroom and Sunshine until you reach the Aquarius drainage. Hike up the drainage and some ice steps until you are at the base of the route.

Screws most of the season, but bring a few cams later on as the ice melts away on top.

There is a bolted belay/rap station on the right at the top of the climb. It's a 60m rope-stretcher to get to it.