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Whip Tide S 

Aquarius 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: John Mallery, 1990
Page Views: 5,926
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Tim on Acquarius
Photo by Jay Conway

Description 

Aquarius is one of the definitive lines of Rumney, as it climbs up a vertical quartz streak. Expect fingery technical moves and weight-on-your feet climbing, a welcome change from the arm burning routes nearby.

The initial steep bulge holds the hardest moves on the route (remember to stem) and gives way to a no hands rest on a ledge. From this rest, it is helpful to climb up and left along jugs to clip the high bolt. Next, downclimb back to the ledge. This way, you will have a toprope through the thin, crimpy, face crux.

Once the face crux is passed, the dreaded topout looms above. Though intimidating, it is easy to clip the anchor chain if you lever up from the good holds below. This way, your thrutching and wheezing can be accomlished with toprope protection. Don't grab the chains, as those nearby will verbally assault you if you do. Top out the cliff, like God herself intended.

Location 

Aquarius is the route between Techno and Whip Tide. Look for the quartz. You can't miss it.

Protection 

11 Bolts


Photos of Aquarius Slideshow Add Photo
James on Aquarius.
James on Aquarius.
James working his way through the top of the crux.
James working his way through the top of the crux.
Seth on his first trip up Aquarius... <br /> <br />i dont need to BE as strong as seth but id love to LOOK as strong as him...
Seth on his first trip up Aquarius...

i dont need...
interesting Beta on the lower crux of Aquarius...
interesting Beta on the lower crux of Aquarius...
Yarding up to make the last clip before going for the dreaded top out... short sleeves in February, wow...
Yarding up to make the last clip before going for ...
a beautiful february day on Aquarius...
a beautiful february day on Aquarius...
another shot same beta...
another shot same beta...
clipping the second to last bolt and getting in to the jugs... what a great day in Feb...
clipping the second to last bolt and getting in to...
One more of seth working out the crux of Aquarius...
One more of seth working out the crux of Aquarius....

Comments on Aquarius Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 3, 2007

just sent this one today... cant say enough good stuff about this climb... just do it, then we'll talk...

ok ill say one thing... the crimpy technical climbing in the middle of the route is sooooo fun... but if you like crimpy boulder problems or desperate mantels the beginning and end of the route are nice too...
By Seth Cohen
Aug 7, 2013

This route is a joy. It makes you work until the very last inch of the climb. Was so excited for the unexpected send yesterday!