|Storm Mountain Island
You can find this route above Six Pence. From the anchor on top of Six Pence go up a broken face to the right, clip a bolt and move right through a roof(crux, a medium nut will protect the move to get to the next bolt for the shorter climbers). Climb the fun face above passing several bolts. At the top is a single bolt with chain link on it. We continued to the top, slung a block for the anchor and walked off.
Above Six Pence on Storm Mountain Island North face.
5 bolts, small to medium nuts (optional).
|By James Garrett|
Jun 1, 2009
This is what we must have climbed...see comment for six pence. I thought it was pretty wild for the grade and considering the rest of the thing was fully bolted for two pitches, felt like a bolted belay would be nice and was somewhat surprised not to find one?, but anybody else feel the same way? Bolts are old, correct?
From: Sandy, UT
Oct 3, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Loved it! Perplexing crux - had to back off a few times before I figured it out. Sweet moves, then gets pretty easy. Slung block for anchor. Walked off. Used light rack.
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
May 16, 2012
Met a guy here many years ago who I think put this route up - he called it "Aqualung" - must have been a Tull fan!
|By Tim Harper|
Sep 12, 2012
Solid bolts on this route (most bolts in Storm Mountain are very well maintained). Easy, fun climb.
|By Joseph Lascurain|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 21, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Really fun route, but could be better.
There was a lot of loose rock on the upper sections and even a bit under the roof. I pulled a few holds off the upper section of the climb by hand with very little effort. Below and to the left of the last bolt there are few larger loose sections of rock that could use some trundling if this thing sees more ascents. The falls in this section would be clean, but rock fall would be a big hazard to those below.
The last bolt had a steel quick link on it for rappel. I climbed above this, and over the next roof, to see if the climb kept going but it didn't add much to the route so I down climbed to the bolt and belayed from there. If the last bolt was turned into an anchor it would provide an easy rap and feels like a logical place to end the climb.
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Did this yesterday, thought it was pretty darn good. There are six bolts, one below the roof, three on the slab above, and two higher. I thought the finishing moves above the last bolt were worthwhile, would not recommend a rap station there. Finger-sized gear for the belay.
|By Gabriel Tallent|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 17, 2014
The climb isn't improved with gear. The bolts are all there, but make sure that as you approach the roof, you work right on the ledge to find the bolt that protects the roof moves. I approached the roof from the left and climbed past the bolt the first time. The roof itself has a lot of loose rock and is wild for 5.8. Several tempting handholds and gear placements turn out to be dangerously loose. I also found the crux perplexing and had to back off a couple of times before putting it together, though it felt perfectly safe once I located the bolt.
Aside from the crux, the climbing is all 5.5.
We climbed to the top, slung a block, and walked off. The quicklink on the bolt looked fine and is probably safe, we just wanted to top out. I recommend bringing one short runner for the first bolt and a 48 inch sling for an anchor, no other gear necessary or even helpful, though as mentioned, there is plenty of opportunity to make a gear anchor (mostly around semi-detached blocks) with finger sized gear to a BD #2.
This route could clean up in time, but given the lack of an anchor and how little traffic it gets, that doesn't seem likely.