Apron Strings 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Alpine Carl on Nov 12, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Me on the first pitch
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Description The crux is definitely the first pitch - very sustained laybacking with delicate smearing. The higher you climb, the thinner it gets. Not super technical but sustained and pumpy.
The second pitch starts with thin laybacking, but after pulling around an a little roof/corner feature, you'll zig-zag up an easy (5.5 or so) off-width crack before finishing on another sweet ledge (and the first pitch of Mercy Me).
Protection Gear (and rock) are impeccable.
Pitch One: One fixed piece about 20 feet up the first pitch. Bolted belays; bring two ropes for the rap.
Medium rack, a few small TCU's, and at least two 3.5 to 4 inch pieces for the wide stuff up top.
Unknown Climber at the crux
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steep first pitch. blue alien before the crux wil...
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Beautiful Squamish climbing
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Collin protecting down low.
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Collin up high sending after taking his first whip...
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Collin at the funky exit move out of the dihedral ...
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A climber laybacking Apron Strings.
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| Comments on Apron Strings |
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 22, 2007
| Hard for Squamish 10b. The crux is suprisingly thin and usually executed on pumped arms. We spent a few days climbing around the Grand Wall base, and I witnessed many falls/hangs at the crux... definitely a bit of a squamish sandbag. The gear is pretty much small nuts right at the crux, further deepening the pump. The 2nd pitch is easier, but still great fun - a technical thin corner leads to a low angled, wide splitter.
Gear - nuts including small ones, double set of cams from TCUs to #3 camalot. |
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 16, 2007
rating: 5.10b
| really good climb- i'd agree with Andy, probably the hardest .10b we did while we were there.
definitely use this climb to start up the Grand- a spectacular (although pumpy!) start to a beautiful climb.... |
By Terry Fisher
May 15, 2008
| I was at the belay on Exasperator taking pics of a leader on teh same climb. Heard a yell and looked over to see a guy take a forty or fifty footer at the cruz on this one. Slid most of the way down and ended up head down. Cool customer tho, he took stock and headed right back up and fired the crux. I talked to him later and turns out he pulled three pieces in the fall. |
By Peter Spindloe
Administrator
From: North Vancouver, BC
May 16, 2008
| Interesting that the gear pulled. As the route description and other comments say, the gear is good, if pumpy to place. Then again, when pumped the fact that good gear can be had doesn't mean that it is. |
By Chris A
Aug 1, 2008
| I think the gear might have pulled because of having to place while laybacking. If your pumped it would be easy to start moving past your gear without really taking a good look at it. However, the gear is bomber if you take the time to look closely at each placement. |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 4, 2011
| Excellent route. P1 goes from #2 camalot down to purple master cam. Save some #0.5 camalots for the middle portion. I was surprised to discover a nice stem below the crux - didn't find it last time! |
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