|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 55'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Don Burroughs, Alan Busby 1993|
|Submitted By:||Ian Wolfe on Apr 30, 2006|
|Comments on April Fools||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 1, 2008
After doing this route a few times now, I've decided that it really is only OK. Don't get sucked into doing it first because it's the easiest graded route on the wall. The awkwardness and weirdness might leave you wondering if all the routes there will be the same (which they are not).
I'll still get on it while in the area, but I'm no longer starting on it.
From: Boise, ID
Jan 10, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
|Not as straightforward as the other routes on the wall. That said I found it to be varied (slab start then steep up higher), thought provoking, and fun.|
By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 17, 2013
|Definitely an awkward climb. It felt like every single move I made was wrong and I constantly had to re-adjust my feet and hands. Usually, I can onsight 10c/d's, but I just totally burned myself out on this one. And by the time I got to the last bolt, I got into a dilemma where I climbed too far past the bolt to clip and was too tired to downclimb and ended up taking a nice whipper. We did Rotohammer and Haunted Hooks afterwards, which were a LOT more fun. Maybe just avoid this climb|
From: Black Hawk, CO
Dec 16, 2013
I liked the movement on this climb, and found it interesting and pretty varied after some of the climbing with more linear thinking on this crag. Figuring out how to make a sideways long reach right near the top to a large hold added some extra zing. Interesting that "awkwardness" brings this route down in quality for people. Is the route actually awkward, or does it just come down to routefinding or having to figure out some different movement?
That said, I thought nirvana was the best line on the wall of what we climbed.