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Apricot Butter 
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Tarantula 

Apricot Butter 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 152
Submitted By: nbrown on Aug 2, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Beta topo
  • All climbing routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed from January 15 and August 15 MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a diverse new line that starts via the funky boulder problem of Apricot Jam, but also tacks on some cool technical face climbing in the middle, and some glorious roof pullin' at the end - all in one sweet pitch. It's not just Apricot Jam, it's butter...

    Start on Apricot Jam, but at the end of the steep corner, move right and clip a bolt (sling all gear in the initial corner long). Traverse further right and then up to better holds and gear in the cool seam feature. Continue to the roof and a great rest on the small ledge. Move up to clip a bolt in the roof and make reachy moves on huge holds through the roof. Crank up the short corner to a small ledge and a fixed anchor.

    Either continue up the buttress via any number of possibilities, or rap.


    Location 

    Start on Apricot Jam. Climbs roof just right of Spectre Man.


    Protection 

    Standard rack. A #4 camelot is useful below the bolt but not mandatory. 2 bolts and a fixed stainless cable stopper in roof



    Photos of Apricot Butter Slideshow Add Photo
    Nearing the end of the Apricot corner
    Nearing the end of the Apricot corner
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