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approach shoe + alpine boot

Original Post
sle · · New York, New York · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

Both my approach/wall shoes and my boots are in a bad shape. In the spirit of owning less stuff, I am thinking that maybe I can find something that would combine the climbing/scrambling ability of my 5.10 guide tennies and the ankle protection/load-bearing of my boots. Is there such a thing - a single mountaneering boot that's made to free climb well (sticky rubber, both edges and smears well)?

Dave Deming · · Grand Junction CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 25

Check Dane's blog, he has several reviews of light mountain boots including the new Scarpa Rebel (drool).

coldthistle.blogspot.com/

Jonathan Petsch · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 45

Salewa Rapace? I ordered a pair yesterday.... so I'll know how they work in a few weeks. Super light boot.

Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

scarpa rebel ultra... drooool

Ben Lock · · Cedar City, UT · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 10

Salewa Mountain Trainers are awesome. I have a pair that are a little too small for me, size 11, used on just one two week outing. I'd be willing to sell them for 150 if you are interested.

sle · · New York, New York · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0
Ben Lock wrote:Salewa Mountain Trainers are awesome. I have a pair that are a little too small for me, size 11, used on just one two week outing. I'd be willing to sell them for 150 if you are interested.
Well, size 11 for me is 3 sizes too large, but I appreciate the gesture :)

Thank you all, as per your suggestions, went to EMS and REI today. Ended up buying bought Salewa Mountain Trainers and right away took them bouldering. The initial report is - free clmbing is meaningfully worse then tennies, but maybe I need to get used to these things. Walking support is good. My dog appears to hate the synthetic smell, which is good (he loves chewing shoes).
Parker Kempf · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210

La Sportiva Boulder X GTX
They are the bomb, walled with 'em this winter in the valley. I was comfortable stepping out of the aiders and onto 5.10 terrain, yet they were stiff enough to kick steps in hard snow getting down the east ledges...if anything, at least try a pair on...i dont know what it is they do but there is some kind of cut out around the toe box that makes it feel like you are edging/smearing in a climbing shoe, but the rest feels like a mountaineering boot.
however their durability is a bit up in the air

Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

Im a huge fan of my scarpa gecko guides for approach shoe

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

I've always been intrigued by the Garmont Vetta's, thing looks awesome though I have no experience with it..

Dobson · · Butte, MT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 215

My Brother has the Vetta and I have a pair of the heavier Towers. The Tower is very similar in function to the Trango S. The Vetta is lighter and more nimble. Just enough support for snow climbing, but not enough to be secure on ice. Perfect for alpine climbs in the low fifth range with patches of snow and scree.

The Garmont fit is a little strange. Try them on.

ColinM McKim · · Frederick, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 50

I love my La Sportiva Boulder-X mid GTX boots

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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