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approach shoe + alpine boot
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By sle
From New York, New York
Apr 3, 2013

Both my approach/wall shoes and my boots are in a bad shape. In the spirit of owning less stuff, I am thinking that maybe I can find something that would combine the climbing/scrambling ability of my 5.10 guide tennies and the ankle protection/load-bearing of my boots. Is there such a thing - a single mountaneering boot that's made to free climb well (sticky rubber, both edges and smears well)?


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By Dave Deming
From Grand Junction CO
Apr 4, 2013

Check Dane's blog, he has several reviews of light mountain boots including the new Scarpa Rebel (drool).

www.coldthistle.blogspot.com/


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By Jonathan Petsch
From Chattanooga, TN
Apr 4, 2013

Salewa Rapace? I ordered a pair yesterday.... so I'll know how they work in a few weeks. Super light boot.


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Apr 4, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

scarpa rebel ultra... drooool


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By Ben Lock
From Cedar City, UT
Apr 4, 2013

Salewa Mountain Trainers are awesome. I have a pair that are a little too small for me, size 11, used on just one two week outing. I'd be willing to sell them for 150 if you are interested.


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By sle
From New York, New York
Apr 4, 2013

Ben Lock wrote:
Salewa Mountain Trainers are awesome. I have a pair that are a little too small for me, size 11, used on just one two week outing. I'd be willing to sell them for 150 if you are interested.

Well, size 11 for me is 3 sizes too large, but I appreciate the gesture :)

Thank you all, as per your suggestions, went to EMS and REI today. Ended up buying bought Salewa Mountain Trainers and right away took them bouldering. The initial report is - free clmbing is meaningfully worse then tennies, but maybe I need to get used to these things. Walking support is good. My dog appears to hate the synthetic smell, which is good (he loves chewing shoes).


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By ParkerKempf
From atlanta, GA
Apr 4, 2013
sweet belay on El Cap Spire, Salathe Wall El Capitan

La Sportiva Boulder X GTX
They are the bomb, walled with 'em this winter in the valley. I was comfortable stepping out of the aiders and onto 5.10 terrain, yet they were stiff enough to kick steps in hard snow getting down the east ledges...if anything, at least try a pair on...i dont know what it is they do but there is some kind of cut out around the toe box that makes it feel like you are edging/smearing in a climbing shoe, but the rest feels like a mountaineering boot.
however their durability is a bit up in the air


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Apr 5, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

Im a huge fan of my scarpa gecko guides for approach shoe


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By Nick Votto
Apr 5, 2013
Bolton, VT

I've always been intrigued by the Garmont Vetta's, thing looks awesome though I have no experience with it..


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By Dobson
From Butte, MT
Apr 5, 2013

My Brother has the Vetta and I have a pair of the heavier Towers. The Tower is very similar in function to the Trango S. The Vetta is lighter and more nimble. Just enough support for snow climbing, but not enough to be secure on ice. Perfect for alpine climbs in the low fifth range with patches of snow and scree.

The Garmont fit is a little strange. Try them on.


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By ColinM
From Escondido, CA
Apr 8, 2013
Capitol Peak

I love my La Sportiva Boulder-X mid GTX boots


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