Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Wayne Crill, 4/13/14 |
Page Views: | 686 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Wayne Crill on Apr 17, 2014 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Apprehension is similar in quality and difficulty to Premonition, more difficult getting onto the face over the lip, and a little more spicy protection wise throughout.
Begin 2m right and down from the tree on the sub-ramp that marks the start of the p3 arete on Premonition (erroneously called Velvet Arete in this database). Look for a thin, vertical crack about 1-2m left of a shallow, broken, left-facing corner below the roof and an obvious downward and left-facing flake in the roof. Climb up this crack (gear) to the broken break below the roof using the flake in the roof to reach hidden holds on the face above. This may be reachy and the gear is a bit below you but the flake is very solid, and you can get your feet high to reach good holds on the face. Exciting. Gear can be placed (with difficulty) in a crack to the right or just get established on the face and immediately find good gear above (crux, 8+ R). Climb straight up the face on good quality rock with sparse gear, staying 3-4 meters right of the Premonition arête (5.8 R). Top out at an obvious stance/alcove high on the lower ramp. Were it not for the slightly foreshortened nature of the pitch and the slight squeeze between Premonition and Sub Slab, this line would be well worth a solid two of four stars. Jalepeno to Habenero spicy.
Begin 2m right and down from the tree on the sub-ramp that marks the start of the p3 arete on Premonition (erroneously called Velvet Arete in this database). Look for a thin, vertical crack about 1-2m left of a shallow, broken, left-facing corner below the roof and an obvious downward and left-facing flake in the roof. Climb up this crack (gear) to the broken break below the roof using the flake in the roof to reach hidden holds on the face above. This may be reachy and the gear is a bit below you but the flake is very solid, and you can get your feet high to reach good holds on the face. Exciting. Gear can be placed (with difficulty) in a crack to the right or just get established on the face and immediately find good gear above (crux, 8+ R). Climb straight up the face on good quality rock with sparse gear, staying 3-4 meters right of the Premonition arête (5.8 R). Top out at an obvious stance/alcove high on the lower ramp. Were it not for the slightly foreshortened nature of the pitch and the slight squeeze between Premonition and Sub Slab, this line would be well worth a solid two of four stars. Jalepeno to Habenero spicy.
Location
Apprehension is located on the Redgarden wall below the lower ramp area. It climbs high quality vertical face between the last pitch of Premonition (currently listed under the name Velvet Arete in this database, I would add Premonition proper, but I have not climbed the lower two pitches...) and Sub Slab.
Photos
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