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 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprehension T 
Arcane Saw T 
Bitter Route, The T,TR 
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 
Cabana Boy T 
Candy-O T 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 
Captain Crunch S 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 
Day Dream T,TR 
Dispensary, The T,S 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 
Flakey Floont T,TR 
Flower Quarter T,TR 
Greaser, The T 
Hasting's Cutoff T 
Lemon Line T 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 
Loose Lucy T 
Lucid Dream T 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 
Mr. Natural T 
Over 'ed Power Line T 
Phee-nix T 
Pickpocket T,TR 
Quantum Mechanics T 
Real Men Eat Eggs T 
Remention T 
Rough Roof T 
Roving for Love T 
Schizophrenia T 
Senora (??) T,TR 
Senorita T,TR 
Shadow T 
Slimy Spoon, The T 
Strangle Hold T,S 
Sub Slab T 
Suparete T,S 
Super Natural T 
Super Slab Direct Start T 
Tiny Line T 
Toys for Tots T,S 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
Velvet Hammer T 
Vertical Smile T 
Waking Sleep T 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 
Zombies on the Lookout T 

Apprehension 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Wayne Crill, 4/13/14
New Route: Yes
Season: not mid summer
Page Views: 113
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Apr 18, 2014

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  • Description 

    Apprehension is similar in quality and difficulty to Premonition, more difficult getting onto the face over the lip, and a little more spicy protection wise throughout.

    Begin 2m right and down from the tree on the sub-ramp that marks the start of the p3 arete on Premonition (erroneously called Velvet Arete in this database). Look for a thin, vertical crack about 1-2m left of a shallow, broken, left-facing corner below the roof and an obvious downward and left-facing flake in the roof. Climb up this crack (gear) to the broken break below the roof using the flake in the roof to reach hidden holds on the face above. This may be reachy and the gear is a bit below you but the flake is very solid, and you can get your feet high to reach good holds on the face. Exciting. Gear can be placed (with difficulty) in a crack to the right or just get established on the face and immediately find good gear above (crux, 8+ R). Climb straight up the face on good quality rock with sparse gear, staying 3-4 meters right of the Premonition arête (5.8 R). Top out at an obvious stance/alcove high on the lower ramp. Were it not for the slightly foreshortened nature of the pitch and the slight squeeze between Premonition and Sub Slab, this line would be well worth a solid two of four stars. Jalepeno to Habenero spicy.

    Location 

    Apprehension is located on the Redgarden wall below the lower ramp area. It climbs high quality vertical face between the last pitch of Premonition (currently listed under the name Velvet Arete in this database, I would add Premonition proper, but I have not climbed the lower two pitches...) and Sub Slab.

    Protection 

    Standard Eldo rack including micronuts and micro cams.


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