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 ADVANCED
Arch Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anticipation T 
Application T 
Bin, The T 
Blotto AKA Axis T 
Dirty Little Secret T 
English Breakfast Crack T 
Entrance Exam T 
Goldilocks T 
Gripper T 
Leanie Meanie T 
Midterm T 
New Dimensions T 
Short Circuit TR 
Short Circuit Chimney S 
Sidetrack T 
Supplication T 
TKO T 
Unsorted Routes:

Application 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Barry Bates, Peter Haan, 10/1971
Page Views: 793
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Jun 2, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This clean crack is often overlooked. Big fists in a mostly clean corner on 2nd pitch ending at a new bolted anchor/rap station. Stars for the 2nd pitch. Can link P1 and 2.

Location 

Just right of Supplication

Protection 

Other than 3.5 and 4 Camalots I only found a spot for one other piece of gear at the start and a tipped out 3 higher up.


Comments on Application Add Comment
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By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Jan 30, 2011

I'm surprised this doesn't get done more because it's both an excellent climb and probably the easiest at Arch Rock. This is a good intro to 5.9 OW. The friction is good, the climbing is less than vertical, and you can usually reach in deep for a fist jam. Definitely easier than the 5.9 OW on Midterm, or the 5.9 OW on p2 of Reed's Direct. You can safely protect it with two #4 camalots. Just stick them in and scoot them up with you the whole way. You could do the same with a single #4, but it would be scary.
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Jan 2, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

very good route to practice hand stacks and calf lock.
About 45 feet of #4 friend and #4C4.
less than vertical, but knee is never in. Too big for fist or capped hands ( for me) too small for arm bar
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Jan 26, 2013

From the top of Supplication it appeared that this route is capped by a chockstone and a large hummock. Assuming these two routes share the same anchor, that would be a really crappy end of the climb. Or does this one have separate anchors before/beside that thing? It sure looked like fun, otherwise.