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Arch Rock
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Anticipation 
Application 
Bin, The 
Blotto AKA Axis 
Dirty Little Secret 
English Breakfast Crack 
Entrance Exam 
Goldilocks 
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Leanie Meanie 
Midterm 
New Dimensions 
Short Circuit 
Short Circuit Chimney 
Sidetrack 
Supplication 
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Application 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Barry Bates, Peter Haan, 10/1971
Page Views: 716
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Jun 2, 2010
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  • Description 

    This clean crack is often overlooked. Big fists in a mostly clean corner on 2nd pitch ending at a new bolted anchor/rap station. Stars for the 2nd pitch. Can link P1 and 2.


    Location 

    Just right of Supplication


    Protection 

    Other than 3.5 and 4 Camalots I only found a spot for one other piece of gear at the start and a tipped out 3 higher up.



    Comments on Application Add Comment
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    By Bryan G
    From: San Jose
    Jan 30, 2011

    I'm surprised this doesn't get done more because it's both an excellent climb and probably the easiest at Arch Rock. This is a good intro to 5.9 OW. The friction is good, the climbing is less than vertical, and you can usually reach in deep for a fist jam. Definitely easier than the 5.9 OW on Midterm, or the 5.9 OW on p2 of Reed's Direct. You can safely protect it with two #4 camalots. Just stick them in and scoot them up with you the whole way. You could do the same with a single #4, but it would be scary.

    By Alexey
    From: San Jose
    Jan 2, 2013
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

    very good route to practice hand stacks and calf lock.
    About 45 feet of #4 friend and #4C4.
    less than vertical, but knee is never in. Too big for fist or capped hands ( for me) too small for arm bar

    By Mark P Thomas
    From: Oakland
    Jan 26, 2013

    From the top of Supplication it appeared that this route is capped by a chockstone and a large hummock. Assuming these two routes share the same anchor, that would be a really crappy end of the climb. Or does this one have separate anchors before/beside that thing? It sure looked like fun, otherwise.