Application 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Barry Bates, Peter Haan, 10/1971 |
| Submitted By: | Jeff Scheuerell on Jun 2, 2010 |
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2012 Closures MORE INFO >>>
Yearly raptor closures typically begin March 1 and remain in effect until August 1, or until further notice. As of March 1, 2012: Lower Merced River Gorge. Closure includes all routes with the following exception: routes west of and including "Later" and northeast of and including "Juliette's Flake" remain open. See the following website for more info: www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This clean crack is often overlooked. Big fists in a mostly clean corner on 2nd pitch ending at a new bolted anchor/rap station. Stars for the 2nd pitch. Can link P1 and 2.
Location Just right of Supplication
Protection Other than 3.5 and 4 Camalots I only found a spot for one other piece of gear at the start and a tipped out 3 higher up.
By Bryan G From: Yosemite Jan 30, 2011
| I'm surprised this doesn't get done more because it's both an excellent climb and probably the easiest at Arch Rock. This is a good intro to 5.9 OW. The friction is good, the climbing is less than vertical, and you can usually reach in deep for a fist jam. Definitely easier than the 5.9 OW on Midterm, or the 5.9 OW on p2 of Reed's Direct. You can safely protect it with two #4 camalots. Just stick them in and scoot them up with you the whole way. You could do the same with a single #4, but it would be scary. |
By Alexey From: San Jose Jan 2, 2013 rating: 5.9
| very good route to practice hand stacks and calf lock. About 45 feet of #4 friend and #4C4. less than vertical, but knee is never in. Too big for fist or capped hands ( for me) too small for arm bar |
By Mark P Thomas From: Oakland Jan 26, 2013
| From the top of Supplication it appeared that this route is capped by a chockstone and a large hummock. Assuming these two routes share the same anchor, that would be a really crappy end of the climb. Or does this one have separate anchors before/beside that thing? It sure looked like fun, otherwise. |
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