Applecake Arete
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m) |
FA: | O. Wiik, E. Webster, T. Enevold, E. Andersen, 1992. |
Page Views: | 945 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Jul 29, 2014 |
Admins: | Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan |
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Description
A great route for a single pitch, and rated "top 50" but honestly it is hard for me to grant that on a single pitch route in Lofoten, where long classics are the real deal.
Establish a belay on a small stable platform right of the huge right facing corner and gully, but left of the slab below the huge right-facing arch.
Start climbing directly up, within an arms length of the arete on your right. As you pass a roof which extends the arete easward above, you nearly miss a merger with the route Lys Og Skygge, which takes over the arete, now 6' further to your right than it once was.
Continue up discontinuous cracks and occasional gear placements, getting what you can, to the rounded top of the wall. Belay up top on gear or set a directional and head sharply right to belay on the chains of Lys Og Skygge.
Establish a belay on a small stable platform right of the huge right facing corner and gully, but left of the slab below the huge right-facing arch.
Start climbing directly up, within an arms length of the arete on your right. As you pass a roof which extends the arete easward above, you nearly miss a merger with the route Lys Og Skygge, which takes over the arete, now 6' further to your right than it once was.
Continue up discontinuous cracks and occasional gear placements, getting what you can, to the rounded top of the wall. Belay up top on gear or set a directional and head sharply right to belay on the chains of Lys Og Skygge.
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