Type: Trad, 190 ft (58 m)
FA: O. Wiik, E. Webster, T. Enevold, E. Andersen, 1992.
Page Views: 945 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 29, 2014
Admins: Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A great route for a single pitch, and rated "top 50" but honestly it is hard for me to grant that on a single pitch route in Lofoten, where long classics are the real deal.
Establish a belay on a small stable platform right of the huge right facing corner and gully, but left of the slab below the huge right-facing arch.
Start climbing directly up, within an arms length of the arete on your right. As you pass a roof which extends the arete easward above, you nearly miss a merger with the route Lys Og Skygge, which takes over the arete, now 6' further to your right than it once was.
Continue up discontinuous cracks and occasional gear placements, getting what you can, to the rounded top of the wall. Belay up top on gear or set a directional and head sharply right to belay on the chains of Lys Og Skygge.

Location Suggest change

This route climbs left of the actual arete proper, which is the route Lys Og Skygge. This is just left of the prominent left-leaning arch on the South Face (Soria Moria), and just right of the huge right-facing gully, which is Sorte Orm.

Protection Suggest change

A mixed rack to 3". Expect some moderate runouts. Some longer slings help with rope management.

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