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Redgarden - Tower One
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Alice in Bucketland 
Apple Strudel 
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Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) 
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South Face of Tower One 
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Three Old Farts Young at Heart 
To RP or not to Be 
Untouchables, The 
Vertigo 
West Arete (of T1), The 
Yellow Fellow 
Yellow Spur, The 
Ytrid Deed, The 

Apple Strudel 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FFA: Achey/Leavitt/Hare, early '80s
Fixed Hardware: 9 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,097
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Oct 28, 2001
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Apple Strudel, photo: Josh Janes.
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  • Description 

    Directly up the center up the face, left of Yellow Spur, are two exciting and thought provoking pitches up immaculate and progressively changing banded rock.

    At the start, protect (or not) a continually-expanding crack with a tricky 5.10 move up the stacked flakes. The crux is getting past the third bolt, and traversing right under the roof...There are some very cool, intricate moves on some small, razor-like hand and foot holds...After the roof traverse the climbing eases past one more bolt, a bashie and then the anchor.

    Pitch two moves left, out the roof, to the lip and requires a an inobvious pull up and over (11). Tiptoe up the awkward, meandering slab past bolts and an occasional nut placement to the easier left facing corner with gear. The big tree atop the ledge has a bunch of slings and rings to rap off of (2 ropes).


    Protection 

    QDs for bolts, micro brass (#4RP at start only) and small-large nuts, 2-bolt anchor atop P1, tree with slings atop P2 (165' rap!).



    Photos of Apple Strudel Slideshow Add Photo
    Josh on Apple Strudel.
    Josh on Apple Strudel.
    Josh at the baffling crux moves on Apple Strudel.
    Josh at the baffling crux moves on Apple Strudel.
    Rob is setting up for the crux moves on Apple Strudel.
    Rob is setting up for the crux moves on Apple Stru...
    Comments on Apple Strudel Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 1, 2002

    It is possible to rap with a 60m rope in 2 raps, but you need to swing over to the triple bolt anchor atop pitch one to get to those anchors for the second rap. Not too bad.

    By Chris Archer
    Mar 15, 2004
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

    Intricate balancy face climbing with sequential foot work. An Eldorado classic. A fall getting to the first bolt would be dangerous and probably warrants a semi serious rating. FYI, the first bolt was in place when I first did the route in '85 or '86.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Feb 2, 2006
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13

    Good route, tricky move just before hitting the overhang and going right. Insecure, but not difficult down low. be careful indeed.
    This route would be much easier to beta-flash than to on-sight, I wager, because the crux move is not that hard, just hard to read and anticipate.

    By Steve Levin
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 3, 2007

    According to High Over Boulder, 1970: "Via a very thin flake, reach a bolt 15-20 feet up, and continue nailing upward. etc."

    By Monty
    From: Golden, CO
    Jan 5, 2013
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

    The 2nd pitch is not to be missed! Lots of great face climbing.

    By Garrett Bales
    From: Lake City, CO
    Feb 28, 2014
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

    Mandatory stick clip or don't fall it will hurt. Third bolt is hard to clip for short peeps. Good route. The bashy is kinda a joke should be replaced, easy ground I guess Eldo people would say.

    By Gregger Man
    Mar 29, 2014

    Hardware update for P2: two more welded-shuts on the P2 face have been upgraded to 1/2" x 3" Stainless Power-bolts with Stainless hangers. One welded-shut remains under the roof on P2. We'll upgrade it sooner or later.