|773 page views|
This is a short but stellar Yosemite-style finger crack on upper Weller Slab. It splits the face between Zanzibar Dihedral and Ultra Edge. Climb the start of [[Zanzibar]105978828 and traverse right at a horizontal hand crack to the beginning of the finger crack. Alternatively, paddle directly up the unprotected 5.9 slab for 25 feet to the fingers section. Then enjoy the superb fingerlocks and fine friction of the clean face. Clear a small lip and, after the crack disappears, face climb up with occasional pro to the top.
Seems this climb is usually toproped by parties after climbing Zanzibar.
Climb Two Ears, move right, and begin 10 feet right of Zanzibar Dihedral. Rap the route, then rap Two Ears. If climbs are occupied, you can walk off down crappy eroded path to the west.
Small cams, offset nuts, nothing bigger than 2". 2 bolt anchor at top of face, good for rapping, but more comfortable to belay off of tree about 10 feet back fro the edge. Bring some long slings.