|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 4, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
This is one of those climbs where it's not clear what's "on" and what's "off".
The guides suggest this is 10c if you stay off the right side of the arete. A lot of the best holds in the upper half, and the last bolt, are basically on the arete itself, and it's pretty tempting to reach around the corner farther. It's super contrived and significantly harder than 10c in my opinion if you force yourself to stay left, and avoid all the possibly-cheating arete holds.
Obviously if you step around the arete to the slab on its right, you can get no-hands rests, which reduces the route to 5.9, and might be cheating.
I'd recommend climbing and having fun and not worrying about rules like this.