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Sun Devil Wall
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Appendicitis S 
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Appendicitis 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Darryl Styles & Joel Shwarcz
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 406
Submitted By: Darryl Styles on May 15, 2013

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Description 

EASY 5.7 PITCH 1 to mid anchors, huge jugs, great feet all the way to the anchor. This is a must do for new leaders. This is the only 5.7 sport climb in the area and it is really fun and very well protected. Can even try mantling in a few spots.
However, the money pitch is the 2nd pitch 5.9+. Leave the belay (or blast past it) mantle the huge ledge before heading into a small crack section. Great hand jams and ledges for one or two moves, then out onto the right hand face. Ledges and side pulls be your friend, but dont let it spit you off, climb over the bulge on small ledges for hands and feet (crux), then up left to the chained anchor.
Take a 60m rope, descend in two rappels or drag another rope to get to the ground.

Location 

Appendicitis is the right most route on Sun Devil Wall, just around the corner before heading up into start of Winter Wall.
Has a low first bolt to give new leaders a bit of confidence on first few moves.
The normal Winter Wall approach trail forks at a huge flat rock that you walk over, take the left (lower) fork. Will bring you out right at the base of the climb.

Protection 

Pitch 1- 6 bolts to chained mid anchor,
Pitch 2- 11 bolts to chained anchor,


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By Darryl Styles
Jun 24, 2013

Climbed this again recently, has cleaned up pretty well. Gotta get more people on it. That second pitch is really fun.