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Appalachian Alpinism 

Appalachian Alpinism 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Brad Woolf, Mike Barnette Oct. 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall-Spring
Page Views: 190
Submitted By: Brad Woolf on Mar 31, 2012
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  • Description 

    P1: Climb face and crack system up and left into the large corner system. Climb corner up over small bulge to the 2nd of 2 ledges and belay. 5.7 140 ft.

    P2: Climb Corner up to where it it turns mossy and horizontal with a small bush sticking out. You can place a #1 and #2 Camalot here. From here traverse right and up on the face (about 15-20ft.) up to a piton we left fixed. From the pin continue up and eventually slightly left (about 30-40ft.) back into the corner where you can get gear. Follow the corner up through several small bulges to a ledge. Use large gear to construct belay anchor. 5.9R 175ft.

    P3 traverse right under giant roof about 100ft. back up into the Chimney/Slot/escape hatch. Climb Chimney out. belay at small tree and some gear anchor left of the chimney on a ledge.

    P4. Shorten a rope to about 100ft. and continue to bushwhack uphill a little then climb 20-60ft bulges of rock up to 5.6. Repeat this process until you hit the rock jock trail. Take the Rock Jock Trail South towards Kistler. Walk Kistler back to the car.


    Location 

    Start about 15ft to the right of the large Right facing crack corner system. You can see the route from the The Mummy on the East side of the river.


    Protection 

    Larger than you would like to carry. We took a set of stoppers, Tri-Cams Pink-Brown, Double set of Cams from #0 TCU-#3 Camalot Singles of #4,5,6 Camalots. You will Use the Larger cams on the 1st and second pitches.



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    By nbrown
    From: western NC
    Apr 6, 2012

    Is this the large rightward arching feature directly across from ampitheatre? Got any pics?

    By William Rhyne
    From: clayton, nc
    Nov 20, 2012

    nbrown that feature does look super! what does that climb like, know a grade?

    By nbrown
    From: western NC
    Nov 21, 2012

    Never done it, thought plenty of others have, most thinking they were doing a FA... You never know when climbing anything even remotely obvious out in the gorge.