Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The North Gym
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) 
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) 
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) 
"Tommy" (Unnamed) 
Apogee Pending 
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo 
Flamingo Lane 
Full Retard 
Here We Go Again... Again. 
Lead Farmer 
Logan's Run 
Long Black Veil 
Observe God's Mistake 
Pimp's Main Prophet 
Power Milk & Bagels 
Power Thirteen 
Rum- Tum- Tuggernaughts 
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown 
Spitting Image 
Teenage Prostitutes 
That's What She Said 
Unknown 1 
Unknown 3 
Who Left the Fridge Open? 

Apogee Pending 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Mark Anderson, 13 March 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,032
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 15, 2011
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Entering the first crux.

Description 

Apogee Pending climbs the directissima up Shelf Road's most continuously steep panel of rock. Unfortunately, a no-hands rest at mid-height detracts from the continuity of the line, but the upper half features 25-30 moves of brutal cranks and sustained, pumpy climbing. The route offers a wee bit of techno-piss, wild dynos, leg threads, tweaky pockets, and a sting in the tail on outstanding cream, pink, & black stone. This wall faces north and receives no sun whatsoever.

Stick clip the first bolt and climb a short, technical wall of petrified mud to a good shake near the arete. Big moves lead over the bulge to a pair of big pockets at the second bolt. A pair of thin crimps and a huge, three-points-off huck gain a series of mini-ledges just below the hanging flake. Cruise up the easy flake to a no-hands rest. Enjoy whatever reading material is at hand. The crux begins off the flake, with a long reach to a half-pad two-finger pocket, then a precise deadpoint to the next pocket, and finally a long move to the horizontal break. Get a quick shake then tackle the next crux; a huge move to a 1/4" crimp followed by desperate stabs to get established above the break. Pumpy slopers lead to the last bolt and one final, pumpy shake before the last crux, a big reach to a crescent-shaped crimp just below the anchor.

A certain amount of contrivance is needed to earn the grade: the arete on the left is off, and the vertical crack that propagates from the top of the flake is off (this sounds worse than it is, as the route climbs very naturally without these features).


Location 

Apogee Pending climbs the obvious, overhanging north wall of the big dihedral.


Protection 

6 bolts to 2 BA. A stick clip is recommended.



Photos of Apogee Pending Slideshow Add Photo
Setting up for the crux stab.
Setting up for the crux stab.
Sticking the big huck move, low on the route. <br /> <br />Photo  Ryan Day Thompson, 2012 | <a href='http://www.ryandaythompson.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.ryandaythompson.com</a>.
Sticking the big huck move, low on the route.

Pho...
Logan tires of father's antics.
Logan tires of father's antics.
The poor shake at the horizontal break.
The poor shake at the horizontal break.
Beginning the second crux.
Beginning the second crux.
Setting up for the big move that caps first crux.
Setting up for the big move that caps first crux.
Comments on Apogee Pending Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Mar 15, 2011

Awesome job, Mark! I can't wait to check out this route!

By Darryl Roth
Mar 15, 2011

It does my heart good to see you hit the hardest route at Shelf thus far. Great Job! It's a true contribution and one that will lead to something harder still.
Logan has good reason to be proud!

By ----
Mar 17, 2011

Why do you call it Apogee Pending? Is there an extension in the works or something? Looks like really nice rock. Way to go.

By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
Sep 27, 2011

I wish you hadn't given all the beta. You totally ruined my onsight.

By Ben Sachs
Jan 13, 2012

Did you red-tag this rig by spray painting a huge hold near the route with red paint? Just kidding, but seriously WTF is that red brick in the photos?

By slim
Administrator
Jan 13, 2012

It looks like a beanie resting on a small ledge(?).

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jan 14, 2012

Beanie is correct.

By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Feb 19, 2012

Nice work, Mark! Great photos, too. It looks like that block you have to throw for is about to pull off....