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Apocalypse Walls
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Apocalypse Later 
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Apocalypse Later 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Greg McCausland 4/88
Page Views: 5,398
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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The sweet awesome bat hang- a must do for those fe...
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Description 

What a great climb. I can't get on it enough. If you are looking for a project at this grade or just looking to warm up before a day of hard projecting, this is a must do.

The route climbs the 45 degree overhang with killer huecos, then breaks right on to the vertical crimp fest.

Start up the short slab and on to the steep inverted hueco covered face. Move quickly and fight the pump, because you need to make a move to the right to gain a crimpy face and it can be a pumpy experience if you wear out your arms on the first section. On the top section, sequence is important so plan ahead.


Location 

Right in the middle of the Apocalypse area, can't miss it.


Protection 

6 bolts to quick clips. The quick clips are placed back from the edge to make you work for it.



Photos of Apocalypse Later Slideshow Add Photo
kevin on the steeps
kevin on the steeps
Kevin latching the jug on the lower boulder problem
Kevin latching the jug on the lower boulder proble...
Pumping through the middle jugs on this varied route.
Pumping through the middle jugs on this varied rou...
Working the technical upper slab.
Working the technical upper slab.
crimping through the finish
crimping through the finish
Comments on Apocalypse Later Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 14, 2014
By Kayte Knower
Mar 3, 2007
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Apocalypse is one of my favorite routes at Rumney. It's a neat little area, sort of tucked away. On chilly days the face is drenched in sunshine. The route is the best of both worlds, long moves up steep rock at the bottom, then you pull onto the face and suddenly you're scrambling for technique. Apparently there used to be a big foot before the transition so you could grab a rest before the face climbing, but no more. If you called it 11d, I wouldn't argue.

By Jen Lloyd
From: Orange, VT
Sep 5, 2007

Actually, there still is a really good rest before the face section in the form of a kneebar. It's pumpy for your left leg and core, but gives your fingers a much needed break before the crimping begins.

By tscupp
From: Cincinnati, OH
Apr 16, 2008
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

It's been a looooong time since I've been on this route, but I seem to remember a shallow mono-undercling on the face around the last or 2nd to last bolt. Is that still correct or was my beta all wrong?

By eric larson
From: aurora, co
May 27, 2008

Tom you are totally correct.. there is a nice undercling on the face.. I use it with my thumb to shake out my right arm before tackling the last few moves to the anchors... its a wild rest!

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 14, 2008

in addition to the knee bar rest a friend and i discovered a nice
bat-hang which is fun and less painful on the leg than the knee bar... what... i just like bat-hangs OK...

By James Otey
From: NH
Aug 14, 2008
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Indeed the bat-hang is fun to do. A little spicy on lead, but awesome. Its more of a novelty rest as it requires you to downclimb a couple moves to get back on route. Whatever- go for it!

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 24, 2008

I hear the overhung part of this route is easier than the face is there truth to this? and if so how much easier?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 24, 2008

i think the only way to say which part is harder is dependent on your personal style... if you are burly strong and have an OK reach the bottom is a breeze, same for the top if you can crimp and have good foot work... If hard 5.11 is your limit chances are you are better at one than the other... thats kinda what is so cool about the climb... Reguardless of where the bussiness is, incase my description isnt clear enough about this, I LOVE THIS ROUTE!!! so climb on it and have fun, and chances are you will fall in love with it too...

sorry about the long response, i cant say enough about this route...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 24, 2008

Thanks Lee I am not at this level yet but i was just curious because a friend was asking about the route so i will probably play on it while they give it a burn.

By S. Neoh
Jul 30, 2010
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

This route and Flesh are both really good climbs in the hard 11 to easy 12 range. Do not underestimate the finish (after the last bolt).

And, who remembers the chain that used to hang from one of the bolts on the overhanging section? It was there until about 1995; one was supposed to clip the lowest link of the chain with a biner or a short draw and then clip a regular draw to the hanger. BITD oddity!

More history - my friend Den called this the 'entry level hardman/hardwoman route' in the first Rumney guide (the purple one), circa 1992. A proud tick BITD.

By irujo
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

way to much work! could be a perfect route, especially because of the 5 minute walk from the parking lot!

By Eddie2170
From: Orange County, NY
Jun 28, 2013

Great route, me & our group made it a mini project this week, seemed to be the most aesthetic line close to the parking lots that was consistently dry. Lots a variation, easy slab, pumpy dynamic jug haul roof low with a techy beta intensive vertical face up top. Clean falls the whole way, great route to put work into, even stayed dry in the rain until the finish jug fills with water and overflows onto the face, but was dry by the next morning.

One of my friends broke a hold off on his redpoint attempt, it had a tick mark on it, so someone before us used it, but I wouldn't consider it a key hold. I did the route afterwards for a redpoint attempt & it wasn't even part of my original beta so I wouldn't have known if I hadn't watched it fly off the wall.

Great route, glad we got on it, if it wasn't for the conditions all week we might have not have done it in favor of some other routes.

By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Aug 12, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Savage is the best word to describe this fantastic short 11+.

By Zane Dordai
Sep 5, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Savage and fantastic indeed. Definitely contains some of the smallest holds ive grabbed at the top of a climb this grade. One of my favorite climbs anywhere.

By J Meagher
Sep 21, 2013

Is this route spooky for those who are used to gym bolting? I start to get scared on committing or hard moves that are more than 5 feet above the bolt and hard slab terrifies me, is there anything like that on this climb? Im better at endurance than power and I try to pick projects based on how comfortable the bolting feels, would this be a good choice?

By S. Neoh
Sep 21, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Totally safe but beware of the last moves (thin face, not real slab). When pumped, the moves do not feel secure above the last bolt. That is why most feel that the run from the last bolt to the anchor is the redpoint crux.
Project it if you want but I think you would be better off doing lots more hard .10 and easy .11 on lead before getting on this bad boy.
Here's another - Finland up at Prudential; very good. Stick clip the 1st bolt.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 22, 2013

This is always the first route i mention when i'm asked about my favorite 11s at rumney...That being said, A friend of mine who was a good solid 5.11 climber did hit the slab below when he blew the clip at the end of the steep part... be careful...

By S. Neoh
Sep 22, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Of the fifty or so .11's I have been on at Rumney, this one is definitely in the top three. Maybe because I had to work so hard to send it!
Blow the clip at the top of the steep section? I did not think that was a tough clip. Clip from a good incut hold? And I might have a funky left foot thing going too to get some weight off for the clip (but definitely not a knee bar).

By iBolt
Sep 22, 2013

"favorite 5.11..."

"definitely in the top three..."

maybe, i have a prejudice about the "meadows" areas of rumney being "ghetto," but I can't help but disagree...

i have a really hard time putting this route in the same category as "flying hawaiian," or "tropicana" (running both both pitches together,) or "black mamba" (again, doing both pitches together,) or "lions,tigers and bears" (either the straight up finish or the "oh my!" finish, or "stoned temple pilot," or "finland," or "northwest passage" or "the crusher" or any number of other 5.11 further up the hill in much better locations, with much better aesthetics.

i think a lot of this routes popularity (and it's high star ratings) is mainly because it's closeness to the parking lot.

don't get me wrong, it's fun climbing, but "top three..." i don't think so.

my personal feelings: it's like doing the "blue route at Vertical Dreams," as in: "nice moves, but consider the location."

iBolt

edited to add a another "really good" 5.11 to my listt

By twellman
Sep 22, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Ed, it should be noted that: (a) several of the people who gave this route 4 stars have climbed all over Rumney, and well beyond, and still consider this a great route; and (b) despite all of your long-winded complaints, you didn't even vote on the quality of the route. Fortunately, you only get one vote. Maybe you are mad that your own routes aren't getting higher star ratings?

By S. Neoh
Sep 22, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Thanks for the qualifiers about linking P1 and P2 of Tropicana and BM together in order to qualify them as "top 3". Well, for me, not in this lifetime. But I concede that both of them will be REALLY good if done as one long pitch. Oh, mind you, P2 of Tropicana by itself is superb, tho I think of it technically as .10d.
Oh My finish of LTB I have not been on. Neither have I ever tried The Crusher (many say it is the best .11 at Rumney). Stoned Temple Pilot is .12 now, maybe soft .12 for some but still a .12, I believe. Finland is nice, especially the no-hands rest after the crux!
As for ghetto, I am not sure what that means. The last time I was on that end of The Meadows, there was only one other party there and they left soon after we got there. If ghetto means ugly looking rock and surrounding vegetation, then it is true and also true for about half of Rumney. Let's not have any illusion that we have nice Southern sandstone up here in the Northeast.
Also, I like climbs that have hard moves guarding the anchors and make you really work for the send. This is one such climb.

Edit: Ed, I think you will see I like some of your routes quite a bit. And I can only comment on .11 routes that I have been on which notably excludes Oh My Finish of LTB and Crusher. I better get going on these.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 23, 2013

Only continuing the conversation because i find it interesting that one would think that a route GAINS points by being close to the road. The closeness to the road only counts against it... I would do this line as well as Flesh For Lulu and a few others so much more if they weren't in such a crappy location (close to the road)...

As for sampling the other 11's at Rumney, I've done almost all of them (getting close :) and i just have to say i love the moves on Apoc. I love the fact that you need to be well rounded to climb it too... Most of the routes you listed would also be in my top 10 however... And though i set many of the blue routes at Vertical Dreams i know the difference between good gym routes and classic rock climbs ;)

See you out there!

By iBolt
Sep 23, 2013

Well, i may be a blow-hard, but i don't think i'm that long winded…

that said:

i didn't say it sucked or i hated it or that it wasn't fun. it IS good, i was just surprised at how many thought it was the "best" 5.11's at rumney.

if you think "apocalypse later" is fabulous, great! (i'd like to point out there are a also large number of people who do think painting on black velvet of dogs playing poker is "fine art." really, who am i to argue???)

since i'm generally a really easy grader, i don't give any routes "stars." (personally, i think any route that i can haul my sorry @ss up is a "5 star route.") so, it's probably best that i don't vote….

as for the "star ratings" on any of my own routes, i think i can tell if one is "good or bad." for example, i don't think i need a bunch of folks on the internet telling me "sir edmund drillery" kinda sucks. i think i can figure that out myself.

also, how could i be "mad" about what other people think about any of my routes? i don't "manufacture" these things, i just uncover them. if the actual climbing on them sucks, "god and nature" are to blame, not me….

reading Soon's comment made me i realized how much exposure counts in my estimation. the routes i think are the "best" are ones that have a significant amount of climbing above the trees. for example, if you look down and to the right while climbing "lions, tiger and bears," it feels like you're miles above the deck. to me, that's a big plus in new england where the cliffs tend to be short and vegetated.

i don't recall "apocalypse" having that airy feeling that's important to me. i'll try to get back on it this fall and see if my opinion changes.

ed e

ps. Lee: i suspect you may just have a different set of values than many of the other "close to road" voters…. Looking forward to seeing you also.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 23, 2013

It's fair to say i think we agree on much more than we disagree on Ed, haha... Getting above the trees is fantastic... a perfect example being Northwest passage... a good route in a GREAT location...

By S. Neoh
Sep 23, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

It is all good, guys. No hard feelings all around I hope.
Yeah, exposure is great, I agree. This route has little if not none.
One can also do Clippy to get good exposure and great views from the top, or most routes at Crow's Nest for that matter.

I happen to like the moves on this route. I am OK with "climbing in a pit" as long as the route has good, fun moves. No broken glass tho. Perhaps that is why I really like the 1 pitch routes New River and Red River have to offer.

Edit: Mea culp here; search of mp.com revealed 88 sport routes currently at Rumney of between .11a and .11d, about two dozen more than what I estimated yesterday. There are so many at the Northwest Crags that I did not even know existed. Northwest Passage, the two-pitch route, sounds really good and I have never been to The Summit Crag! Shame on me.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 24, 2013

The Summit Cliff has some routes that make the hike up very worthwhile, Soon. I would suggest getting there via the trail by the NW Territories. The trail has been improved quite a bit lately and you will also have the chance to run up Cozened Stone along the way to break up the hike.

By Lundy Bancroft
Nov 4, 2013

Just a minor sidelight to this thread, but have to throw in that I love Sir Edmund Drillary and don't get why people are so negative about that climb. (Referring to what iBolt wrote up above.) Maybe it's improving with time, getting cleaner and less sharp. But the main thing I guess is that taste is just super variable. Looking forward to working Apocalypse.

By Russ Keane
Feb 14, 2014

"Is this route spooky for those who are used to gym bolting?"

To answer this question-- I would say ANY outdoor route is spooky compared to a gym. It's a whole different ballgame. But I assume you know that.