APM - Auto-lock Pass-through Munter
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AMP
AKA the Ouray Belay, this is an option for climbers who like to belay with auto-lock belay devices when the situation requires lowering from the top. It addresses the challenges of lowering a partner on auto-lock devices. 1. Lower climber from the top using the Munter to desired distance. 2. Remove the Munter. 3. Belay as usual with auto-lock device. |
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Brillant! |
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Why not add one of those new smaller Grigris to the brakestrand so that if the reverso gets jammed up against a rock so that it's open and your hands are busy making pb&j sandwiches it will still hold the second. |
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Do you just remove the munter as they start climbing and remove tension from the line? Seems like you could perhaps get your hand sucked into the belay device in a bad way if they fall while you do that, but maybe I'm visualizing it wrong. |
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This looks very interesting. In my experience, the lowering system that is incorporated in the reverso-like devices does not work the best for lowering long distances because it seems to be either completely open or completely closed unless moderated very precisely (much more so when the ropes are wet). |
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can you set it up or take it apart if the line is tensioned? |
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I was confused about how this would be used. I guess it makes a lot more sense if it's just used for top rope climbs that are inaccessible from the bottom, huh? =) |
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ah, another entry for the rube goldberg competition. |
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Certainly you could use the device (my preference is the Guide) and pulley it open so to lower; however in those long lowers you can control the lowering better by being direct off the anchor and without fighting the load, which gets old fast. |
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Why not just use the MH? Overcomplication leads directly to mishap in my experience. It seems that if someone is solid in the MH or Reverso, they'll be able to lower and TR belay form the top. |
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lowering in from the top is retarded. just tie in, rap, pull up the slack and go. quite a few people have decked in the park while being lowered in from the top. |
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Kevin Connolly wrote:lowering in from the top is retarded. just tie in, rap, pull up the slack and go. quite a few people have decked in the park while being lowered in from the top.who said anything about lowering in from the top? there are scenarios that may require you to lower your second mid-pitch. |
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Crag Dweller wrote: who said anything about lowering in from the top? there are scenarios that may require you to lower your second mid-pitch.id love to know how you can set up the OPs original system ... mid pitch, with a tensioned rope ... id just set up the normal lower on the guide ... or belay with a redirect |
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Though I may be retarded when getting some safe mileage, I'm really good looking at it. |
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this setup only really works for lowering from the top, it would be broken down by mid pitch, if you think you will have to lower mid pitch use a redirect, grigri, or find a better partner. |
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I dont get it? |
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Has any device in the history of climbing gear generated so many complicated work-arounds for all the things it doesn't do well? |
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The only thing it doesn't do well is lower. None of the (good) workarounds are complicated. OMG! I have to redirect the brake strand through a munter, how can I climb when my mind is being taxed so much. |
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^ ^ ^ ^ |
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I belayed from top & down using a Guide, yet again, nobody died. |
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Thanks for the interesting conversation. My intent for posting the APM was to put it out there, not to advocate for it. |