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 ADVANCED
Utah Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Airtime T 
Apex T 
Apex Right T 
I Love My Wife But She Doesn't Climb T 
In The Pink T,S 
Lawyers, Guns, and Money T,S 
Right of the Roof T 
Shotgun T 
Shotgun (Variation) T,TR 
unknown (right most crack in the roof) T 
Unknown (TR) S 
Unnamed T 
Unnamed Dihedral T 
Utah Crack T 

Apex 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 739
Submitted By: Tom Powell on Jul 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Richard under the roof on apex.

Apex 

The route is directly to the left of Shotgun beginning it follows the discontinuous cracks and corner angling to the left and pulls the roof continuing to the right towards the anchors for Shotgun. There is a fixed pin that can be clipped when pulling the roof. The protection is a little tricky above the roof.

A standard rack works fine the largest piece I used was a #3 C4.

This route is a must do in Ogden Canyon.


Photos of Apex Slideshow Add Photo
Apex before the roof
BETA PHOTO: Apex before the roof
Old piton above the roof
BETA PHOTO: Old piton above the roof

Comments on Apex Add Comment
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By wasatch-mtn-man
Sep 17, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Did this on TR today. I think it would actually be easier to lead this since you wouldn't have the rope issues to deal with on the overhang. The roof on this is certainly more difficult to surmount than on Shotgun and I think the roof LG&M seems easier. Just me?
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Oct 21, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a really great climb for a new trad leader. There are lots of places to put all different kinds of protection. The stances to place the pro are all good. The move from the "apex" of the roof out onto the face is fantastic, but it felt a little harder than a 5.7 move. None of the rest of the climb is any harder than 5.5 or 5.6
By Neil Johnson
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 2, 2014

Up to the roof was really fun, but the traverse over to the chains for "Shotgun" completely ruined it for me. Its difficult to protect, and the rope drag can get really bad.