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 ADVANCED
b. Jackie and friends
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Top Rope TR 
A-Gape T 
Ape and Essence T,TR 
Ape Call T 
Badcliff T 
Belly Roll T 
Betty T 
Blackout, The T 
Classic T 
Classy T 
Daydream T 
Dennis T 
Disco Death March T 
Into Thin Hair T,TR 
Jackie T 
Jane T 
Jasmine T 
Matinee T 
Miss Bailey T 
P38 T 
Pebbles TR 
Pink Laurel T 
Raubenheimer Special T 
RMC T 
Roddy T 
Slightly Roddey T,TR 
Stirrup Trouble T 
Unsorted Routes:

Ape and Essence 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Laura Brant, 1973
Page Views: 867
Submitted By: Kostas K on Sep 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Ape and Essence

Description 

The crux on this route is close to the start, where the climber must move right after climbing a thin vertical crack. It's certainly harder for shorter climbers. Higher up, you can exit right out of the second overhang to join RMC, or continue up the corner to join Ape Call. A solid Gunks 5.9.


Location 

Left facing corner 10 ft left of RMC, outside a large chimney.


Protection 

It's possible to TR from the pine at the end of P1 of RMC.
The crux seemed like it would be hard to protect if leading.



Photos of Ape and Essence Slideshow Add Photo
Shirley at the beginning of the difficulties.
Shirley at the beginning of the difficulties.
Comments on Ape and Essence Add Comment
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By Rui Ferreira
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 22, 2010

Now that the pin is gone from the initial crack this should be rated R. The leader needs to make committing (balance) moves to get the higher crack hold and fiddle with gear. The only other protection is to the right and below the leaders feet, with the potential for a ground fall.

Not recommended for a leader breaking into Gunks 5.9's...

By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
May 11, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

A very fun and often overlooked climb. Even without the piton in the corner, there is no way this is R. Good pro at the start and good (but strenuous) small nuts up the tiny seam through the crux. Worth doing.

DL