|Type:||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Jim McCarthy, Laura Brant, 1973|
|Submitted By:||Kostas K on Sep 23, 2009|
|Comments on Ape and Essence||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Rui Ferreira
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 22, 2010
Now that the pin is gone from the initial crack this should be rated R. The leader needs to make committing (balance) moves to get the higher crack hold and fiddle with gear. The only other protection is to the right and below the leaders feet, with the potential for a ground fall.
Not recommended for a leader breaking into Gunks 5.9's...
From: Stone Ridge, NY
May 11, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
A very fun and often overlooked climb. Even without the piton in the corner, there is no way this is R. Good pro at the start and good (but strenuous) small nuts up the tiny seam through the crux. Worth doing.