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Routes in Drip Buttress
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Apathy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Chemotherapy T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Melanoma T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sisu T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Standard Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Mackenzie Moore, Alex Vaught |
| Page Views: | 2,378 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Mackenzie Moore on Jul 1, 2014 |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Description
Techy Blodgett face climbing at its best. While being a fairly safe route, it offers great movement, and very tricky cruxes on excellent rock.
Pitch 1. 5.11b/c (Don't start in the crack directly below the bolt. Climb the flake to the left, it has better pro and is most likely easier.) Climb through flake to bolt past a tricky crux and through the roof. Climb past pockets in crack, (#2 and #3s very useful) to second roof (small tcus). Pull through awkward second roof/bulge, and continue up 5.9 lieback to bolt anchor. 75ft
Pitch 2. 5.12a Sweet pitch! Traverse right and up through a bolt protected slab (cruxy), through roof and figure out the sequence through the dihedral/bulge (crux) to bolt anchors. 100ft 10 bolts
Pitch 3. 5.12a Pull through boulder problem at the 2nd bolt and continue past slung pocket and #2 or 3 camalot sized solution pocket to a bolt. Make a 5.8 traverse (great holds, no pro) to the left until you are underneath a roof, climb flake to good protection (0 and 1 tcus) under the roof. pull the roof and follow delicate slab moves up and left to an interesting belay. 100ft 9 bolts #2 and #3 Camalot.
Pitch 4-5 are optional and follow the regular route to top out. From the pitch 4 belay traverse left (5.8) into the 4th pitch of the regular route. (5.8)
Pitch 1. 5.11b/c (Don't start in the crack directly below the bolt. Climb the flake to the left, it has better pro and is most likely easier.) Climb through flake to bolt past a tricky crux and through the roof. Climb past pockets in crack, (#2 and #3s very useful) to second roof (small tcus). Pull through awkward second roof/bulge, and continue up 5.9 lieback to bolt anchor. 75ft
Pitch 2. 5.12a Sweet pitch! Traverse right and up through a bolt protected slab (cruxy), through roof and figure out the sequence through the dihedral/bulge (crux) to bolt anchors. 100ft 10 bolts
Pitch 3. 5.12a Pull through boulder problem at the 2nd bolt and continue past slung pocket and #2 or 3 camalot sized solution pocket to a bolt. Make a 5.8 traverse (great holds, no pro) to the left until you are underneath a roof, climb flake to good protection (0 and 1 tcus) under the roof. pull the roof and follow delicate slab moves up and left to an interesting belay. 100ft 9 bolts #2 and #3 Camalot.
Pitch 4-5 are optional and follow the regular route to top out. From the pitch 4 belay traverse left (5.8) into the 4th pitch of the regular route. (5.8)
Location
It starts 50 ft to the left of the regular drip route, and is marked by a single bolt to the right of a left facing dihedral.
Protection
2 #3 Camalots, singles in, #2,#1,.75,.5, for larger cams. For smaller cams go with 0,1,2,3 tcu sizes. 10 quick draws, and 5 extendable runners.
Bring two sixty meter ropes for the rap off the top of the drip. Also a double rope rap from the 4th pitch anchors will bring you down to the first pitch of the route.
Bring two sixty meter ropes for the rap off the top of the drip. Also a double rope rap from the 4th pitch anchors will bring you down to the first pitch of the route.
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