|The Shrine of Vanity
This trad line starts by jamming through a short bulge, then moving up easy rock. Grunt through a slot (the crux) and onto easy territory again. Belay from a small tree.
This is just left of the left-most bolted route on The Shrine. The crack & bulge are apparent.
The easiest descent is probably from bolted anchors of the adjacent route (right), but you can walk off to climber's left, head downhill, then squeeze through a slot back toward the base of the crag (otherwise, you end up below where you want to be).
#3 Camalot down low and an assortment of medium gear. The guide suggests a #4, but we did not place it.
There are bolted anchors for an adjacent route if you want to use them instead of belaying from a small tree.
|Comments on Apathetic Womb
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 30, 2012
First trad lead on this route today! My partner found a big loose rock about halfway up, I found the route a tiny bit sandy but quite fun otherwise! Good placements (in my newbie opinion) for medium and large nuts. I didn't really miss the #4 much, but if you had some large cams, you could better protect the upper part of the offwidth - not sure if #4 would be big enough though.
The bolt anchor from next door on Reap What You Sew - difficult to equally load the two bolts with the fixed hardware up there - could use an upgrade.