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 ADVANCED
The Shrine of Vanity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All We Like Sheep T 
Apathetic Womb T 
Gluttonous Ego T,S 
Here We Go Again T 
Reap What You Sew T,S 
Simply Complicated T 
Slap My Bitch Up T 

Apathetic Womb 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mills & Pon, 2002
Page Views: 209
Submitted By: John Marsella on Mar 16, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Grovelly fun one wet May in the land of deer poop.

Description 

This trad line starts by jamming through a short bulge, then moving up easy rock. Grunt through a slot (the crux) and onto easy territory again. Belay from a small tree.

Location 

This is just left of the left-most bolted route on The Shrine. The crack & bulge are apparent.

The easiest descent is probably from bolted anchors of the adjacent route (right), but you can walk off to climber's left, head downhill, then squeeze through a slot back toward the base of the crag (otherwise, you end up below where you want to be).

Protection 

#3 Camalot down low and an assortment of medium gear. The guide suggests a #4, but we did not place it.

There are bolted anchors for an adjacent route if you want to use them instead of belaying from a small tree.


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By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 30, 2012

First trad lead on this route today! My partner found a big loose rock about halfway up, I found the route a tiny bit sandy but quite fun otherwise! Good placements (in my newbie opinion) for medium and large nuts. I didn't really miss the #4 much, but if you had some large cams, you could better protect the upper part of the offwidth - not sure if #4 would be big enough though.

The bolt anchor from next door on Reap What You Sew - difficult to equally load the two bolts with the fixed hardware up there - could use an upgrade.