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Peyote Cracks Formation - E. Face (aka Bachar Toprope Wall)
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Apartheid S 
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Apartheid 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Scott Cosgrove, November 1987
Page Views: 899
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Apartheid

Description 

Located near the right end of the east face is this semi-classic Josh sport route with some hard moves and plenty of funk. Passing the first bolt is the crux, but moving into and past a gaston move at the top is tricky as well, especially if pumped.


Protection 

4 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 15, 2014
By Murf
Dec 2, 2002

Crimp as hard as you can on that edge, are you going to bring both hands up or go with one!? Don't look at the swing into the dihedral... anyway its overhanging enough to keep you safe....

By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 3, 2002
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Don't miss the no-hands rest either!

By jk
Mar 7, 2004

A q. for those seasoned ones: "What's considered good style for clipping the anchors (mantle first, then clip)?"

By Randy
Mar 8, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I usually clip before doing the last move over the top, since you can. As long as you don't clip and then lower without doing the last moves, or clip and then pull on the anchor, what difference does it make; its sport climbing.

By Josh Beck
Nov 4, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I disagree with some other folks here - you could hit the dihedral quite hard if you don't get to the second bolt, it's not particularly steep. It's also not very long or, in my opinion, a terribly great route. 3 out of 3 is way overrated, I'd give it at most 2 of 5...

By Murf
Nov 4, 2004

Well all I can tell you is that I've fallen going for the second bolt, and didn't hit the dihedral, YMMV. Ditto that on stars.

By Josh Beck
Nov 4, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I'll admit that I sketched out of commiting to the move to the 2nd bolt - didn't like the look of the fall at ALL and I was kind of glad I did, as when I then rigged it with a TR to at least play on it some, my first try going right was less than wholy successful :)

There are some fantastic sport routes around this difficulty level in jtree that deserve stars, traffic, fame, etc, so I was pretty let down by this one I guess.

By Randy
Nov 5, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Maybe its just me, but this route is a classic sport route and as good as most at Josh. All the moves are good and except for the start has no "offending" easy sections. But feel free to scratch off a few stars when the new guide comes out.

By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 5, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Hey Josh,

Maybe if you'd done better on your attempt you'd deem it worthy of more stars, no? Just a thought. I'd give it three and a half out of five stars.

By Josh Beck
Nov 5, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I dunno... I'm normally a person who gives a lot of credit to a lot of routes and I enjoy almost every route I do or don't do. To me saying that this is as good as Bikini Whale (3 stars per the site) and better than Satanic or Father Figure (2 stars each per the site - wtf?) is way out of whack. Satanic and Father Figure are two of the best routes I've been on in Jtree of any variety, 4-5 stars of 5, in my eyes anyways. Even after I figured out some beta on Apartheid I didn't care to go up it again for a redpoint, and the two other folks that I was climbing with agreed that it was something of a let down in their minds. I guess different strokes for different folks is all. Maybe if it had no stars we would have been blown away? I guess I'll go back and get on it again to give it another chance since you guys think so much of it...

By Gary Kleiger
Jan 24, 2005

No Randy, its not just you.

Yes, this is a short route. But is the length of the route the most important aspect of quality? IMHO, its the quality of movement that counts most.

As for the positive aspects of the route, once you reach the first bolt, every move thereafter is on good rock with interesting holds and technical, bouldery movement. If you are scared of hitting the dihedral, do as we did and set it up on TR. A stellar sport climb.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 4, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

We TR'd this route. This is the standard for the 12a grade at Joshua Tree. Highly recomended.

By Muff
Nov 28, 2011

Not really a route I would seek out unless in the area. Perhaps I am biased at 5'7. Short, burly, and somewhat reachy. I had a hilariously pathetic attempt at the finishing mantle move. 2-3 stars out 5.

By Scott Cosgrove
Sep 4, 2013

This was the first bolted route I did in the Park and couldn't believe it hadn't been climb yet. I climb it ground up and place all the bolts on lead. The crux for me was the mantle as it was very grainy and hard at the time.

I rated it 12b and still think it is, if you do the mantle...

I don't think it's as quailty as say, Leave it to Beaver, but it's darn fun if I do say so myself. A great warm up and entry level route for that beautiful wall.

By Jer Schoenborn
From: yucca valley ca
May 15, 2014

hook it up with the no hands rest beta!