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Apache Peak

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Bishop's Scepter T 
Bishop, The T 
Black Knight T 
Kasparov Traverse T 
King's Pawn T 
King, The T 
Northwest Face 
Queen's Way 
Queen, The T 
Rook, The T 
White Knight T 

Apache Peak  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,441'
Location: 40.0583, -105.651 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 47,439
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mark Oveson on Sep 1, 2005
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Apache Peak, late March 2006

Routes Queen's Way, ...

Description 

Apache Peak lives on the Continental Divide at the head of a high basin west of Brainard Lake. At 13,441', Apache Peak is the highest peak in the Brainard Lake area and the second highest in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Apache's west slopes form a significant portion of the Lone Eagle Cirque west of the Divide. Apache Peak connects to Navajo Peak by a 3/4 mile-long southeast ridge commonly traversed by climbers heading for Dicker's Peck (described as a climb on Navajo Peak). From time to time Apache is reached from Lone Eagle Peak by the remote and challenging Mohling Traverse (see Lone Eagle Peak for a description). The sweeping north ridge of Apache connects with Shoshoni Peak and is graced by several towers known as the Chessmen. Travelling the mile-long ridge from Shoshoni to Apache and climbing the Chessmen in the process is called the Kasparov Traverse.

Apache is also home to wonderful snow climbs, including the classic Queen's Way, the short but sweet Apache Couloir, and remote Fair Glacier.

Getting There 

Approach most routes from the East by hiking from Brainard Lake into the high basin between Navajo Peak and Shoshoni Peak. The Kasparov Traverse and the Chessmen are approached from Pawnee Pass. Fair Glacier can be reached from Monarch Lake on the west or from Pawnee Pass via the Crater Lake Trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.0 miles from here

11 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Apache Peak:
Kasparov Traverse   R     Trad, Alpine, 2000'   
Queen's Way   Steep Snow     Snow, Alpine, 2000'   
The Queen   5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150'   
Bishop's Scepter   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'   
Northwest Face   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 M4+ Mod. Snow     Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 10 pitches, 2000'   
The Rook   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Apache Peak

Featured Route For Apache Peak
The middle of the third pitch.

Northwest Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 M4+ Mod. Snow  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Apache Peak
This is a big, big face in a remote location. Gerry Roach describes the northwest face of Apache as "steep, broken, and uninteresting." Maybe so in summer, but in the spring, with lots of snow cover and some ice, it becomes a major alpine route. We picked out the line of least resistance leading to the summit. We started with a 750-foot gully (containing two of the route's three cruxes), then some steep rock (5.7) and easy mixed ground leading to a long traverse to the right (south) to skirt a b...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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