An enormous sandstone overhang, with at least 20 different variations. Some traverses, roof problems and overhangs. Opposite of the main overhang are two awesome V2 slab problems. 250 yards up the trail, and 10 feet of the trail to the right is a mega classic V5 overhanging traverse. There are rarely any other climbers, but often hikers. Its only 20 minutes from Santa Fe, and you can let your dogs run around.
Take I-25 north from Santa Fe. Get off on exit 297 (Valencia). Go left underneath I-25 and get back on south bound, drive for about 1 1/2 miles and park in a large pull-off marked by a giant green road sign saying "Canoncito at Apache Canyon". At the north end of the parking lot, cross a drainage and follow trail for about 1/4 of a mile. Cant miss it.
I stopped by Apache Canyon when on the way through/past Santa Fe last year, and was distinctly unimpressed. Maybe it was the fact that the stream was pretty high, but there's really not much here to do unless you're into eliminates. I'd drive southwest to the Pond instead, I think.
From the streambed wall, there are problems (v0 - v11)scattered all about the canyon along the trail and up on the hillsides. About 200 in all, some very high quality, some average and some less than great.
Must do's Energy Club v5, Hello Panda v7, Geisha v9, Mrs Doubtfire v10, Hellory v9, Unga Bunga v5.
This place was developed about 10 years ago so may be dirty again by 2010 and show little signs of traffic anymore.
The place is still clean and see's some regular traffic. You should go in the late Summer-Fall/Winter if you are wanting to get the maximum out of the main wall. When the stream is low tons of variations. If the stream is running, then hit the boulders uphill or further up canyon. Beautiful place with some really quality problems! The problems up on the hill don't see nearly as much traffic, but there are some quality problems if you look.
hey santa fe crankers, would anyone mind posting descriptions on some more of the climbs here? I really enjoy the sandstone bouldering and I'd like to know where some of the other classics in the canyon are.
I know of the main wall and energy club, but all these are new to me: Hello Panda v7, Geisha v9, Mrs Doubtfire v10, Hellory v9, Unga Bunga v5
Isn't the classic arete just uphill from the streambed. If you are facing the streambed turn around and find the trail uphill. There is an overhanging arete with pockets that I remember as outstanding. I don't know the name, but the grade is around V5. It starts low left and goes up and right to a nice mantle finish.
There are many problems scattered around the hills above the well known overhanging area. I think there are more descriptions available at rockclimbing.com. There are some high quality problems, however it looks like someone has gone out there with a chisel and manufactured some holds. Not cool!