Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Anyone used ascenders on twins?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Aug 1, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

I know: I'm gonna die.

Now that we're past that, have you? I'm getting on an alpine route this weekend that I may/may not be able to climb. We're hoping to use twins because two ropes are best for the descent and twins are obviously the lightest choice.

My Petzl ascenders are rated down to 8 mil and our ropes are 7.5 mil. My OG Grigri is rated down to 10 mil, but I've certainly used a rope as small as 9.2 mil without any problems. But comparing a Grigri to an ascender is kinda like comparing apples and oranges.

The ascenders and ropes and in two different cities so it seems easier to post here than to actually test the pieces of gear together.

I'd be psyched to hear from anyone that has experience using Petzl ascenders with a 7.5 mil rope.

Thanks!


FLAG
By Stiles
From the Mountains
Aug 1, 2012
Rough

I've used petzl jugs on 8mil and it was fine. Lotsa rope strech means lots more wear on your sheath, though. This alpine route you may not be able to climb may ruin your rope


FLAG
By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Aug 1, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

Stiles wrote:
This alpine route you may not be able to climb may ruin your rope


Correction: My buddy's rope. Haha.


FLAG
By CWood
From SLC, UT
Aug 1, 2012

If you don't load it over an edge, it might be ok, but that's hard to avoid on alpine routes.

Importantly, if you attempt to ascend one rope and are belayed on the second rope, the worst thing that can happen isn't too terrible. You should be able to transition from being belayed on both to ascending one and belayed on the other without switching anything up, so long as the auto-block device on the anchor will allow you to pull rope through with one rope under tension. A plaquette will allow this, I believe, but not sure about ATC Guide or Reverso...

Check out the video at the bottom of this page and see how easily a rope will shred over an edge:

www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/product-experience/self-belay-solo->>>


FLAG
By randy88fj62
Aug 1, 2012
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades

If you end up going and using your ascenders; you can always put prusiks above your ascenders which mind themselves as you push up and if the ascenders slipped the prusiks would catch you. This adds more gear and time but would be a safe option.


FLAG
By Princess Mia
From Vail
Aug 1, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks

Or simply skip the ascenders, go light weight and prusik.


FLAG
By slim
Administrator
Aug 1, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

jugging a 7.5 .... (shudder).....

man, i think you should just eat your wheaties and free/dog/frenchfree/whatever. jugging a 7.5 would suck. you would need to be REALLY careful about keeping it away from edges, etc. maybe jug one, and have the belayer keep you snug on the other one.


FLAG
By Auto-X Fil
From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Aug 1, 2012

Are there whole pitches you might not be able to climb? Usually an extra-tight belay and a little pulling on gear will get you up something a couple letter grades harder than you can usually climb.

I'd rather have a lightweight aider and daisy than an ascender if I think a route might be too much for me.

Otherwise, I'd bring your 9.2 and one 7.5 if you don't have a lighter pull strand. Like the others mentioned, jugging on a rope over any kind of edge shreds it in no time. It gets worse on thin ropes, and it gets worse on stretchy ropes. A 7.5mm is about the thinnest, stretchiest rope you can get. I doubt you could jug 60m of it without a major core shot, even over typical gentle edges.


FLAG
By Auto-X Fil
From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Aug 1, 2012

Princess Mia wrote:
Or simply skip the ascenders, go light weight and prusik.


That's still going to shred the rope.


FLAG
By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Aug 1, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

Auto-X Fil wrote:
Are there whole pitches you might not be able to climb?


No, just short sections I reckon.


FLAG
By Unassigned User
Aug 1, 2012

Carry some extra cams and just pull through... Done that too many times. Way easier. If you have to you can sometimes batman the rope or prussic if you are really screwed. But for the most part just pull on gear.


FLAG
By Matt Kuehl
From the desert
Aug 1, 2012
Plumbers Crack

You could also use the ropes together (like twins) and ascend with prusiks around both ropes together at once. Personally I wouldn't want to bounce around on one 1/2 rope. A Petzl Shunt might work better than ascends/prusik in this case too, but those are only rated for ropes down to 8mm. Just a few thoughts I had


FLAG
By J Antin
From Denver, CO
Aug 1, 2012
First morning at Indian Creek!!!

+1 for french free.

If you can communicate with your belayer, you can yard on 1 strand while the other belayed strand captures your progress.

J


FLAG
By FreeRangeHuman
From safari van
Aug 1, 2012

Yeah the weight saving of twins plus bringing ascenders doesn't make any sense. Go climb something you can climb! Or bring cams for a few moves of aid


FLAG
By Princess Mia
From Vail
Aug 1, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks

Maybe the route is over your head......

Yeah I wouldn't prusik either on skinny ropes....... unless it is an emergency......

I agree with french free.......


FLAG
By Eric Fjellanger
Aug 1, 2012
Me on top of Chianti Spire

This forum is like a fascinating zoo for bad ideas.

Improv-aiding through tough cruxes on lead is one thing, it's another to climb a route you can't toprope hangdog your way up. So I'd first encourage you to climb something easier, if you're that worried about it.

If you really want to do it anyway, admit to yourself that you might resort to full-blown aid, and bring a thicker rope.


FLAG
By Buff Johnson
Aug 1, 2012
smiley face

Eric Fjellanger wrote:
This forum is like a fascinating zoo for bad ideas.


plus a million


FLAG
By Merlin
From Grand Junction
Aug 1, 2012

Marc H wrote:
I'd be psyched to hear from anyone that has experience using Petzl ascenders with a 7.5 mil rope. Thanks!


Its absolute shit, bring a bigger rope or some cord and rig a bachmann plus texas prussik setup. Personally, jugging a rope that size any way sucks.

Just bring a bigger rope.


FLAG
By dirtbag
From Bellingham, WA
Aug 1, 2012
i really enjoyed this drive to the tetons... can't wait to make it back to WY

NO. Refer to Mark Twight's book Extreme Alpinism on the subject for a more thorough answer and suggestions for alternative rope systems.


FLAG
By Princess Mia
From Vail
Aug 1, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks

Marc H......

As you have climbed the Pacific Ocean Wall you should maybe be a bit more knowledgable in this arena? No? Why jug when you clearly have solid aid skills? Unless you are attempting something way rad.......and then why such skinny ropes....... just trying to sort it out......

What are you going to climb?????????


FLAG
By CWood
From SLC, UT
Aug 1, 2012

AntinJ wrote:
+1 for french free. If you can communicate with your belayer, you can yard on 1 strand while the other belayed strand captures your progress. J
That's more or less what I was thinking, but with an ascender or other rope grab instead of hands-on-rope.

A loaded 7.5 looks scary skinny though...


FLAG
By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 1, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

Definitely French free it or aid. No need to jug anything.


FLAG
By Leeroy
Aug 1, 2012

Marc H wrote:
I know: I'm gonna die. Now that we're past that, have you? I'm getting on an alpine route this weekend that I may/may not be able to climb. We're hoping to use twins because two ropes are best for the descent and twins are obviously the lightest choice. My Petzl ascenders are rated down to 8 mil and our ropes are 7.5 mil. My OG Grigri is rated down to 10 mil, but I've certainly used a rope as small as 9.2 mil without any problems. But comparing a Grigri to an ascender is kinda like comparing apples and oranges. The ascenders and ropes and in two different cities so it seems easier to post here than to actually test the pieces of gear together. I'd be psyched to hear from anyone that has experience using Petzl ascenders with a 7.5 mil rope. Thanks!


Awesome Troll Marc!

A master at work.


FLAG
By Rick Blair
From Denver
Aug 1, 2012
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!

I follow on alpine way above my head all the time. I use tiblocs on 7mm cord, totally solid.


FLAG
By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 1, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

Leeroy wrote:
Awesome Troll Marc! A master at work.


Duh-oh!

Well played, sir. Well played.


FLAG
By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Aug 1, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

The funny (or scary?) thing is that this isn't a troll. Trolling isn't my game; I think it's pretty lame. I was really considering doing this. LOL The fact that none of y'all have jugged a 7.5 speaks volumes.

We're getting on Pervertical, Mia. I'm not in the greatest shape right now, but I'm sure I can climb at least 95% of it.

I don't know for sure what we'll do yet, but I imagine I'll just suck it up and pull through any sections I can't free quickly.

A Tibloc (or maybe even a Ropeman) is a great, lightweight idea as a backup. Thanks Rick!

Flame on!


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>