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Anyone know the details of making sawed angles?
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By brian hess
From Logan, Utah
Feb 7, 2012
the glorious pitch 7

I need to make some sawed angles for a trip in may and I'm not sure what length to cut them. Also what size pitons/baby angles would you recomend for making sawed angles?


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 8, 2012

One, if I had to guess you want them for the Shield. If so, go easy on the hammer since it's gone clean about 20 yrs. ago. I hear about people still nailing on sections that I climbed pretty easily with TCUs just because they freaked with the exposure. Try to score some offset cams and you'll be happy. OK, enough preaching.

Two, just chop them with a hacksaw and use a grinder or file to round off the edges. Easy.


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By brian hess
From Logan, Utah
Feb 8, 2012
the glorious pitch 7

I'm considering several walls in Yosemite. Planning on clean aid but I'm still going to take the the gear it calls for in the the yosemite big wall book.


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By Wally
From Denver
Feb 8, 2012

From my buddy who climbed Mescalito with me last summer:

Yeah, cutting off 40% of the angle is reasonable. Between 1/3 and 1/2.
Any more and there really isn't much taper left.

We sawed two 3/4" and two 1" angles - never used them - climbed the line entirely with clean aid.

Climb Ohn. Wally


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 8, 2012

I don't know how many you'll need, but you may want to take more than one of each size, since the dimension of the pin is going to be different depending on where you chop it. Say, one where you chop it about 1/3 down and another about 1/2. If you have just one size and it's not quite right, you may have problems.


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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Feb 9, 2012
OMG, I winz!!!

I used a hack saw. Easy as pie.


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By David Sweet
From Moscow, ID
Feb 9, 2012

Even easier - just loan your pins to Chris and he'll give 'em back sawed off.


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By Mark Hudon
Feb 10, 2012
On the North America Wall in 1977.

I used a caborundum (?) blade on a Skil saw and cut only 1/3 off of them. I cut a few in half but they are way too short.


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By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Mar 27, 2013
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber

Ha! There we go, I actually used my index.

Here's the answer:

www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?topic=8826&for>>>

Actually, this will take you there more directly:

www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Big_Wall-Aid_Climbing/Dr._Pito>>>

Do a "control + F" find-search for "sawed" in the Checklist above and you will get your answer.

I used hardly any sawed-offs on The Shield, incidentally. I probably shouldn't tell you this, but big Peckers work just fine and with minimal [but not non-existent] nailing impact in the crack between the big-ass ugly pinscars. Or you can fiddle around with offset cams and hand-placed sawed-offs.

Typically with sawed-offs, I will hand-place them. Then I will hit them with my hammer. {wink}


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