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By KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Sep 12, 2010
Me at the summit of Inner Course (5.4) in the Outlets.  Long, lovely, mellow route.  Well protected even.  My favorite lead from the trip.
The Dakotas don't seem to have a home here on MT. Project. Is anyone here familiar with Rapid City, SD? Is there a good gear shop where I might pick up a guidebook for the Rushmore area? I found guidebooks for Devils Tower and the Needles, but we'll be there several days. I'm printing the mini-guides from this site, but could use a little more info on finding routes within a given area. Thanks!

Kathy

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By Garrett Soper
From Duluth, Minnesota
Sep 12, 2010
Leading at DL
I don't know about Rapid City itself, but since you're going to be in the area, you could go to Granite Sports in Hill City, which has quite a good selection of guide books.

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By Ayescotty9
Sep 13, 2010
Gossamer, Rushmore Climbing Area. Cleaning the climb.
This seems to be the appropriate forum for SD. The Admins could probably add in SD alongside CO and WY in the description.

I second the Hill City, SD Granite Sports for guidebooks. You'll probably want to pick up the Mount Rushmore Guide by Vern Phinney, but it's dated, and many of us are anxiously awaiting Andy Busse's guide (hurry up Andy) that will add in the tons of new Mt. Rushmore route developed over the last 15 years. If you call Granite Sports you can order the guide over the phone. Good people there - Pat the owner is super friendly, and many of the local guides work there as well. Support the local shop (granitesports.biz/). If you're climbing in Custer or at Mt. Rushmore you'll only be 5-10 mintues from the shop.

In Rapid City itself there's a good selection of gear at Scheels and at an outdoor store on Rushmore (I don't remember the name of it off the top of my head). I don't recall either place having guides, however.

Other guides: South Dakota Needles: Adventure Climbs of Herb and Jan Connby Lindsay Stephens, is a great read, and there's a lot of SD Needles history, but the route descriptions are sparse, and it focuses on Conn's climbs exclusively. There are some out-of-print guides. Piana's Needle climbing "Touch the Sky" is highly coveted, and expensive. McGee's "Poorperson's" Needles guidebook is a little cheaper/easier to find 2nd-hand online. There's an out of print John Page guide too. I know of these last three 2nd hand.

Check out this site for a discussion of the guidebooks and a couple handy links to some out-of-print maps to the Custer State Park climbs: (billandcori.com/blackhills/bh_....

I've found myself printing the mini-guides myself quite frequently as well, regardless of all the beta in the guide-books.

Btw: Andy finish your Rushmore guide! =)

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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Sep 13, 2010
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my "Bourne Identity" style reboot of The Eiger Sanction. This was from the rough draft's first act.
Whatever you do, be careful of Dan. Because he's usually hot,and he'll draw fast and shoot, and the next thing you know, you've got a doctor stinking of gin cutting into you.

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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Sep 13, 2010
This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after failing to send in 2008.  Finally got throw a heel over the lip jug -- now I can sleep.  Photo Darin Limvere.
Right across Main Street from the Firehouse Brewing Company there is a sports shop (seemed mostly like a skateboard shop) that has some climbing gear and a few guidebooks. I don't remember if they have a Rushmore guidebook, and also don't remember the name of the shop. Sorry. Is it "Edge Sports?" (any Rapid City locals out there?)

However, search bookfinder.com for "Vernon R. Phinney", and find this book "Mt. Rushmore National Memorial Climber's Guide". You can get a copy on Amazon. It's out of print so not cheap, but at this point in time it might be the best one out there (for Rushmore). If you make it to Granite Sports in Hill City, they usually have a few copies of this one on hand (for cheaper than online).

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By Jade S
Sep 13, 2010
lead up Lander Turkey Shoot
Yeah Edge Sports has all of the guide books for the area.

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By YDPL8S
From Santa Monica, Ca.
Sep 13, 2010
Bouldering at right side of Sun Deck
Just got back from there, OOOOOH you'll love it!


You'd need a month.
You'd need a month.


You'd need more than a month just to do everything in this picture.

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By Chad Koch
From Mission Hill,SD
Sep 13, 2010
YDPL8S,
Those are the Cathedral Spires, right? Didn't get to climb there, but it looks awesome. What climbs did you do? Planning on going back next year.

KathyS,
The only mulit-pitch I can suggest is Garfield Goes to Washington, in the Rushmore area. Did that one a couple months ago & really enjoyed it. The only multi I've done so far.

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By valygrl
From Boulder, CO
Sep 13, 2010
My buddy Daryl runs Sylvan, and is one of the nicest people you'll ever meet.

sylvanrocks.com/

He might be able to provide some info.

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By YDPL8S
From Santa Monica, Ca.
Sep 14, 2010
Bouldering at right side of Sun Deck
Chad, this last trip was with my fiance' to show her the beauty. So, I only got in a few short ones on the back side of Sylvan Lake (beautiful place by the way). The aforementioned Sylvan Rocks has a good rep, so they would be a good resource. They were pretty wet up there earlier this year so everything is pretty lush and beautiful (except the beetle kill).

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By KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Sep 14, 2010
Me at the summit of Inner Course (5.4) in the Outlets.  Long, lovely, mellow route.  Well protected even.  My favorite lead from the trip.
You folks are awesome! Thanks for the info and the humor. I waited too long to post my questions to mail order anything, but I printed a few things from links you provided and will check out those gear shops for a guidebook or two. I am looking forward to some great climbing! :^D

Kathy

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By SlowTrad
From St Paul, MN
Sep 17, 2010
Just a small warning, be ready to run it out if you climb at Sylvan Lake / Cathedral Spires. 30 foot run-outs are COMMON, not the exception. Falls may not be fatal, but the rock will cut you up real good if you fall.

Or maybe I just pick routes with "historic" value. Geriatrics is one example, it is only 5.9, but it has a big gap in protection points, even if you put in the intermediate cam/nut between bolts.

Have fun.

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By KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Sep 22, 2010
Me at the summit of Inner Course (5.4) in the Outlets.  Long, lovely, mellow route.  Well protected even.  My favorite lead from the trip.
Thanks again to all who replied! We had an excellent time, and only scratched the surface. We lost one climbing day to rain, so we never made it to the Cathedral Spires. We will be back. We found the Stephen's book on the Conn routes, and Vernon Phinney's Rushmore book in Hill City. We also found a good guide to Devil's Tower in the gift shop after we were done (oh, well). With those, and printouts from MP, we found far more routes than we had time to climb. Some highlights were the Doody route up the Gnomon, Dire Spire (Conn route), Cerebus (Triconi Nail), Bon Homme Variation (Devil's Tower) and Inner Course, which was uncharacteristiclly well protected (9 bolts and one cam in 140 feet).









Kathy

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By Ayescotty9
Sep 27, 2010
Gossamer, Rushmore Climbing Area. Cleaning the climb.
Awesome pics Kathy! Sounds like you had a great trip, but left a lot of climbing to do on a return trip.

=)

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By KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Sep 27, 2010
Me at the summit of Inner Course (5.4) in the Outlets.  Long, lovely, mellow route.  Well protected even.  My favorite lead from the trip.
Bob Packwood wrote:
Looks like you lead Cerberus? That's a great climb! Did you back up the pins on the first half or not? Just curious...


No, I only dream of leading 5.8's. Just don't have the lead head for that. That's my partner on Cerebus, and me bringing him up Inner Course, which is a lovely, long, mellow 5.4. I don't remember what he did for gear. I defintely remember him skipping a pin on the Gnomon for an Alien placement nearby at a good stance - can't remember what he did for Cerebus.

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By TimFromMaine
Sep 27, 2010
moment of doubt.
I heard people from S.Dakota like to try and poop on there unattended children from ledges in Eldo, or something like that.

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By KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Sep 27, 2010
Me at the summit of Inner Course (5.4) in the Outlets.  Long, lovely, mellow route.  Well protected even.  My favorite lead from the trip.
This one's for Ayescotty9:



Same route as your avatar. :^)

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By SlowTrad
From St Paul, MN
Sep 28, 2010
That's Gossamer if I'm not mistaken. Great little route.

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By Tim McCabe
Sep 28, 2010
Kathy, Glad to hear you had a good time in my old stomping grounds. I missed this when you first posted as I was up in Colorado at the time.

As you have obviously learned not every climb there is for every one. You mentioned Innercourse I know it only had 3 or 4 bolts placed during the first ascent but they realized what a great easy climb it would be and the FA party added more shortly after.

Person of MP wrote:
I heard people from S.Dakota like to try and poop on there unattended children from ledges in Eldo, or something like that.


As I said I was up in CO this fall and from what I saw it is common practice to poop and leave paper all over the place. Not that that makes it OK just an observation.

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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Sep 29, 2010
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my "Bourne Identity" style reboot of The Eiger Sanction. This was from the rough draft's first act.
nice pictures, looks epic

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