Anyone have experience with these bolt hangers???

store.madrockclimbing.com/s…

I am looking into getting a few dozen hangers and noticed these were not only just about the best price I could find, but the twist in the eye hole seems intriguing. Anyone placed/clipped these before? Seems like overhangs might not be the best place for these but otherwise they look good.

They are common, nothing wrong with them.

They have more than doubled in price in the last few years. At $1.25 they were great.

I've clipped them. They are fine, and I wouldent have a problem using them on overhangs. You might want to drill the hole out to 1/2" if you are placing 1/2" bolts.

good stuff, and more importantly made of stainless.

Check these out, been using them for a while now. Probably my favorite affordable hanger (except when the Fixe's go on sale!)

rapbolting.com/bolt-hanger

Mad rock:
Pros - easy on biners, dull/non-shiny tone.
Cons - can be awkward to unclip on steep and pumpy terrain due to the bend snagging the notch of 'biner.

Climbtech :
Pros - good shape and size, cheapest price
Cons - shiny as hell for stainless (looks more like chrome)

Just remember........DON't MIX YOUR METALS! These are nice compact hangers that work well on featured rock due to their smaller size (less surface prep).

Locker wrote:Mad Rock SS Hangers: I have used hundreds and have had ZERO problems with them. One small issue is when using wedge style anchor bolts, the nut/anchor shaft can crowd the clipping area a wee bit. Other than that, they're AOK all the way around. EDITED: " can be awkward to unclip on steep and pumpy terrain due to the bend snagging the notch of 'biner.". Only an issue for the SECOND so not a problem! LOL! Also used hundreds of the Climb Tech style and they're fine as well. They are shiny though like mentioned (Primer paint helps). Mad Rock tumbles theirs some to remove the shine. I wish they'd all do that. But no doubt it would up the cost some. Of the two, I prefer the Mad Rock. I like the lack of shine and also the lip on the hangers. Seems like it would be more forgiving on your biners when taking a whipper.

I've seen the problem first hand with the studs sticking out too far on small hangers and it sucks unless you like standing on hangers for the French free.

The shine is easily fixed with a sheet of 220 sandpaper.

and wait, you dont retire your biners after a whip?

Nice thanks gentlemen, I was planning on pairing these with triplex bolts so crowding of the eye shouldn't be too bad. So would you say they are dull enough to not need primer painting??

Sweet, just saved me some serious time. I guess until Fixe hangers go on sale I will pick some mad rocks up.

isnt everything madrock makes made in China?

Locker wrote:Made in China? So the fuck what! They're fine! You think American made products are so perfect and great? You old enough to remember the Covaire, Pinto or Grimlin? (Almost forgot about the Pacer. Another winner for sure!) LOL!

really I like this countries quality control methods better than China, the metal we use is almost always better and as far as tools for the trades go China has a CRAP reputation. Japan OK, China=shit.

and thats spelled Gremlim beeatch, my uncle had a purple one, ran forever and ever with no oil changes!

Locker wrote:Hey wait one fucking minute here pal! You said I misspelled it? Hmmm... "and thats spelled Gremlim beeatch" Personally I don't recall the GremliM. ;-)

how often do you resole madrock shoes? I hear they fall apart faster than walmart socks do

So climbers are cool with supporting child labor and evading environmental protections, so long as it saves us money?

YES I AM

I agree with Locker about the nut/bolt shaft crowding the clipping area with a wedge type bolt. It can prevent some motion of the biner more than usual.

I've used these. They are fine. At 25KN hangers are certainly not the weak link in the system. I like them better than Fixe because Fixe have a sharper edge where the biner gets more gouged from a fall. I do like the three dimples on the Fixe that help prevent them from spinning.

Larry S wrote:I agree with Locker about the nut/bolt shaft crowding the clipping area with a wedge type bolt. It can prevent some motion of the biner more than usual.

any time you start clipping in the nut/bolt shaft area it's a delicate venture...

Every time Locker places a bolt, a Chinese orphan develops diarrhea.

ClimbBaja wrote:"Mad Rock tumbles theirs some to remove the shine." I'm not sure that is true; it may be the opposite. A sheet of 300 series SS (most common for bolt hangers) is dull to the eye unless polished. Tumbling cleans, deburrs, and polishes.

We abrasive tumble all our bolts to give them a matte finish (it´s generally called barrel finished in this context). The alternative is to chemically treat them in pickling acid. Passivation is the last step and sanding later removes any effect as it is a surface treatment.

ClimbBaja wrote:"The shine is easily fixed with a sheet of 220 sandpaper. " Stainless steel is treated to further inhibit corrosion. One way is by passivating in an acid bath. The other is by polishing the surface. Interfering with either type of treatment is reducing the corrosion protection. The corrosion of stainless steel is not always visible to the eye and affects the interior grain of the metal. For that reason, I recommend: Do not roughen the surface with sandpaper or anything else.

Exactly. Climb Tech electropolishes its Wave Bolts, so I suspect it does the same to its hangers, which would explain the bling bling. Electropolishing (or conventional polishing) typically helps increase the corrosion resistant of the material. Scratching the hanger to hell with 220 grit will void the benefits, and then the developer is essentially paying for a feature he just removed (electropolishing is not free).

ClimbBaja wrote:Stainless steel is treated to further inhibit corrosion. One way is by passivating in an acid bath. The other is by polishing the surface.

I've done both. It is very easy, quick and inexpensive to pacify stainless steel. You can do it cheaply for under $0.01 per hanger. I modified my 2nd generation Wave Bolts by passivating some, and passivating and polishing others. I found that adding the polish on top of the passivating layer yielded a superior performance in a marine environment, as opposed to passivating only. Of course, polishing the bolt kind of removes the passivisation, so I am not sure if it is really necessary to do both, but the passivation did remove a bit of crap on the bolt that the factory did not remove.