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Anyone Aid in SLC?
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By DrApnea
From Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 20, 2011

I would really like to get more into more aid climbing so I can do a personal goal of a big wall in a few years. Background: currently I have aiders, trad gear, hooks, and lead trad 5.9, sport 10s. When I cannot find a free climbing partner, I have sometimes setup top ropes and self belay with ascenders to aid up pitches using hooks, cams, and nuts. I would love to get more appreciation for aid climbing by going out and leading and or cleaning a few pitches with someone more experienced in aid that lives in the SLC area if possible. Anyone looking to aid in the canyons (LCC, BCC, etc) now that the weather is getting cooler? I don't care if it is true Aid, Clean aid, or clean aid up some stiff free routes, just PM or reply if interested. Thanks.
Thanks,
Stephen
Reliable, safe climber.


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Oct 20, 2011
The route in it's entirety.

check out riveting below the peeler direct for a good intro. ya it's a bolt ladder, but at least it'll get you used to top stepping and using the tension of your fifi for reaching between bolts. If you have some offset stoppers or cams then the peeler direct crack goes at C1+ for some more excitement.


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By Brian in SLC
Oct 20, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Greg G wrote:
If you have some offset stoppers or cams then the peeler direct crack goes at C1+ for some more excitement.


Hmmm. I might think its a touch harder than C1+.

Scene of my longest fall on aid...


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By DrApnea
From Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 20, 2011

Do tell..


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By Brian in SLC
Oct 20, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

DrApnea wrote:
Do tell..


Was back in 1985 climbing with Wasatch old guard climber Hal Throolin. He was half asleep, belaying me on a munter hitch.

I'd followed a fairly lightweight friend up the route, leaning back, and watchin' most his stoppers fall out. But, he was solid, and, a fair bit lighter than me. I used pretty much the same gear he did (borrowed his thin stuff). Twisted sideways to unclip my aider and the #6 Chouinard steel stopper I was standing on popped. I pulled out around seven pieces, had unclipped from a bashy after the last bolt on the three bolt ladder, and, I pulled the last bolt in that ladder out. Homemade hanger and 1/4" rawl split shank with a threaded nut. Still have it somewhere. Was around a 50 footer and I ended up a few feet from the ground is all, as, I yanked poor Hal about 10 feet into the air, disturbing his nap.

I'm sure some of the newer nuts make the thin crack more reasonable, but, I swore I wouldn't lead the thing again without placing a fat pin in the bottom of that crack (and haven't been on it since, although, I've soloed the rivet ladder variation: fun!).

C1 or C1+ would be VERY straightforward aid, methinks. Easy cams, solid, or stopper placements that are bomber. I can't see, even with peenuts, newer BD micros, small cams, that the crack is that "easy". But, as they say, "its all A0 until you fall"...

Cheers!


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Oct 21, 2011
The route in it's entirety.

I guess you're right Brian. I had never led any C2 until that point, and climbed it much faster than I had anticipated. So I assumed it must have been because of my fancy gear. I did use a cam hook which would make it c2 by definition, but I would have left it for protection it was so solid.

I think the crappiest placement I had was a 00 Metolius mastercam with about 2 maybe 3 lobes engaged with a bomber stopper below. Had I more offset cams it would have been safer I suppose.

I've also heard that Fallen Arches is a good training aid climb with the traversing nature of the lead, and clean. Borrow some orange tcu's for that bad dad.


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By anant
From salt lake city utah
Feb 13, 2012
city of rocks idaho

HI,
I have done a little bit of aid and I would really like to get into it more so i can climb some bigwall stuff soon. I would be down to climb as soon as it is possible to climb.


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By DrApnea
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 13, 2012

Send me a pm with your contact info. I've been toying with some aid on overhung lines. We can get out as soon.


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By Alma Madsen
From Lehi, UT
Feb 13, 2012
About to climb A Rose is a Rose

I am also interested in getting in to aid climbing. I don't have any specific aid gear (other than trad gear) but I am willing to invest. I lead 5.9 trad and 5.10's sport and I have a set of cams with doubles in the 1-3 range and a set of nuts.


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By brian hess
From Logan, Utah
Feb 22, 2012
....

I live in Logan and I've done a bit of aid climbing. If I'm down in SLC, I'd be up to do some climbing. I have also heard there is some fun aid routes in Ogden Caynyon.


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