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Anybody done "In the Rough" (5.8) on Sundance Buttress, Lumpy Ridge?

Original Post
Semicolin 1 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 80

So, I've climbed all of the 5.8 and easier routes at Lumpy Ridge that are listed as 2 and 3 stars in the Gillett guidebook, so we're moving on to the 1-star routes. This one stumped me, though. "In the Rough" is described as a 5.8, the rightmost line on Sundance, beginning 100' uphill from Plumb Line (5.9). Below is how Gillett describes the pitches compared to what I found and I'm hoping someone can point out if this route was extremely sandbagged or I was in the wrong spot:

  • p1 (Gillett): climb a slab to a tree [what i found: climbed a left-facing flake because it offered better protection, to a brush ledge with a dead tree]
  • p2: angle right along a short 5.7 ramp to a piton belay [I went up and right along a ramp, as described, and found a 2-piton belay below a shallow unprotectable crack and blank slab, no "spike" in sight]
  • p3: climb a dead-end crack and friction up past a spike, belay on a grassy ledge [Instead of what looked like 5.10 unprotectable slab, I tension traversed left to a crack that dead ended after 25', tension traversed right to a left-facing flake that also dead ended after 25', then tension traversed back left to a ramp that ended above a brushy ledge]
  • p4: follow the ramp up right, 5.7 left-facing layback ends at a ledge with a large tree [I did exactly this]
  • p5: traverse right to saddle descent [I did this too].

on pitches 2-3 I cleaned two separate anchors (found some old chouinard carabiners and an omega locker) so someone else had gotten lost here and rapped off.

My question to anyone on the forum is: Was I completely off route, is Gillett's description bad, or was I just wupped by the 1977 FA bad-asses?

Here's a pic of my general ascent line:

"In the Rough" on Sundance Buttress, Lumpy Ridge?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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