Any Way You Slice It
|139 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb & Peter Spindloe, 6/29/03|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Jun 29, 2003|
"Any Way You Slice It" this is a pretty cool line. At the crux, a 20 foot section with a slight overhang up the edge of a huge free-standing tower/flake, you feel as if you are climbing a handcrack between two giant slices of bread.For this particular route, almost no cleaning of dirt or lichen was necessary, and only a small amount of rock was removed from the crack to facilitate good jamming and protection. The line is border-line 2-stars and would see frequent ascents at a more popular crag. It's reasonable for those pushing the grade to protect as well.
Walk up the cliffline towards the top. Perhaps 100 meters past the massive slab of "Curiosity..." and 50 meters fromt eh top of the real cliff (boulders go further. Yuo will see a big plate of rock starting 7 meters up and running for 7-8 meters. There is a corner on it's left (unclimbed, looks mellow, but has vegitation in it) and a crack up it's steep right hand edge. Climp up to and through this crack (crux), then from the top of this flake, up and right on cracks to the top of the wall.
To descend, scramble up about 30meters to the SW and then scramble down a reasonable descent where the cliff is short, then walk back to your packs.
This route is well protected on a standard rack of nuts and cams to 3"