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Any TR Soloists in the area?
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By Bonneville
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 17, 2014
Alpine trip up Grandeur during a winter storm

Hey guys how goes it? Is there anyone here in the SLC area that regularly does TR solo climbing? This is something I'd like to learn but am not comfortable teaching myself. I can provide some cash for your time, food, and some beer afterwards. I have all my own gear except for a micro traxion which I can pick up before we head out. As always, any help is greatly appreciated! Cheers! =)


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By drmartindell
From Homer, Ak
Feb 17, 2014

Petzl's websie has info along with diagrams detailing how to self belay. It's pretty straightforward. You could save yourself cash, beer money etc.


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By Bonneville
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 17, 2014
Alpine trip up Grandeur during a winter storm

I'll go check it out. Thanks for the lead drmartindell! =)


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By kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Feb 17, 2014
Why I do it...

It isn't rocket science. I learned how to aid climb this way.
Step 1) hike around the back side to the top of the route you want to climb. (Don't fall while hiking, you could die.)
Step 2) Build an anchor or equalize the bolts.
Step 3) Tie a figure 8 on a bite to one end of your rope, and clip a biner to both the loop and the anchor. (Now its called a single fixed line) Two locking biners is better than one.
Step 4) Toss the rope.
Step 5) Rap or hike to the bottom of the route.
Step 6) Connect a weight to the bottom end of the rope. (Backpack, bag, or tie a log to the rope.)
Step 7) Connect yourself to the rope using a grigri, mini-trax, or jumar. (Maybe two of these ya know one as a backup.)
Step 8) Climb up 5 or 10 feet and fall to test the system.
Step 9) Once satisfied, climb to the top.
Step 10) Detach the Jumar, mini-trax, but not the grigri and use it to rap to the bottom.
Step 11) When your done, climb or hike to the top, break down anchor and walk back to the base of the route, put it all in the bag, go to the car, and find a partner. Its a lot of work for a few burns.
Kevin


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By mountain dog
Feb 20, 2014
Rock Canyon

I do some TR soloing in Rock Canyon a day or two a week, you'd be welcome to come along anytime.


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By Bonneville
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 21, 2014
Alpine trip up Grandeur during a winter storm

Hey Mountain Dog that would be awesome! I'll be picking up a Silent Partner here in the next 2-3 weeks and would love to come on down. Just outta curiosity, is that the device you use are do you recommend/prefer something else?


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By mountain dog
Feb 21, 2014
Rock Canyon

Bonneville wrote:
Hey Mountain Dog that would be awesome! I'll be picking up a Silent Partner here in the next 2-3 weeks and would love to come on down. Just outta curiosity, is that the device you use are do you recommend/prefer something else?


I actually use a Micro Traxion. I really like the device. Occasionally back it up with an ascender. I don't know much about the Sllent partner other than it's probably twice as expensive as my traxion and ascender.


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By Bonneville
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 21, 2014
Alpine trip up Grandeur during a winter storm

Hmm...that's good to know. I've been a little leary of the Microtraxion setup after reading that it can shear your rope but I'm sure if done right it's about as safe as any other self belay system. I've never seen it in action and am totally new to this rope solo stuff so there's a chance I'm being over cautious based on the information I've obtained up to this point. Maybe before I purchase a system I can come check out how you rig this style of system. If it's cheaper and just as safe then it should be a win win situation no?


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By mountain dog
Feb 21, 2014
Rock Canyon

Bonneville wrote:
Hmm...that's good to know. I've been a little leary of the Microtraxion setup after reading that it can shear your rope but I'm sure if done right it's about as safe as any other self belay system. I've never seen it in action and am totally new to this rope solo stuff so there's a chance I'm being over cautious based on the information I've obtained up to this point. Maybe before I purchase a system I can come check out how you rig this style of system. If it's cheaper and just as safe then it should be a win win situation no?


Absolutely if you want to see it in action before deciding what you think would work best for you, be my guest. I personally love my micro and trust it.


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Feb 21, 2014
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

the silent partner is for lead soloing.


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By tri-cameron
Feb 21, 2014

haha - are you looking for a TR solo partner?


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By Bonneville
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 21, 2014
Alpine trip up Grandeur during a winter storm

Tri-Camron, not a TR Solo partner, just looking to get some hands on with experienced people before I dive into it on my own.

Mountain Dog, what days/times do you usually go? I mean, assuming the conditions are good for rock climbing.

Keenan, can you not TR with the silent partner as well? I'd like to do both. I just figured it would be better to work my way into lead soloing by starting out TR soloing.


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By Kevin Chuba
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 22, 2014
There it is

if your into this... Don't forget a gri-gri, TWO mini traxions, seat harness, chest harness (two slings along with a short piece of webbing), burly rope (correct length), directional s, lockers, something to weight the rope (your pack full of beers maybe?) when the beer is gone your over it anyway.


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By Climber26
Feb 22, 2014

Here check this out. this is what I looked up when i got into TR soloing. there are five videos total I know it's about lead soloing but you know once you get into TR soloing, lead soloing is only a short time behind. Also shows that the soloist can be used for lead soloing.



I have a soloist and it works well. I do where a chest harness (DMM brand)- to back up the soloist I tie overhands on a bight one handed while climbing and then clip a biner through the loop. there is no way if the soloist fails to catch, that the knot and biner will pull through the device. i used the same concept when using a grigri and route setting.

get what you like and research the device you choose. I tried the mini traxion and didn't like it (only a 4kn breaking rating for the traxion to the soloist 24kn rating to)

also learn self rescue... I got a little over zealous one time out and started up something at my limit. decided to back off, only to realize all i had on me was my reverso and 24in sling to clip the chains. so I had to improvise a way to get down. now I carry an oh-crap biner with a few goodies on it to help me in a jam.


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By kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Feb 23, 2014
Why I do it...

I've used a grigri, a silent partner, and a mini trax-before.
The Silent Partner (SP) has a long learning curve. I mean the folks that love using it, have used it for years and it took about a year of fritching with it to get it smooth. The coolest part of using a SP is once your at the top of the pitch, you can grab the hanging line and lower yourself down SLOWLY so the wheel doesn't engage. If you go SLOW enough you can run laps till your arms fall off rather fast.
The mini-trax has about a 10 minute learning curve. Once you rig the thing, your good to go. Don't worry about shearing the rope, your rope should be 10MM.
I use the grigri because it is designed for belaying and catching a fall. I like how it doesn't need a back up device too. The soloist is a good choice, just don't fall upside down. Perhaps the best thing is to buy them all and use them all and sell the ones you don't like.
Thats what I did.


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By JeffL
From Salt Lake City
Feb 26, 2014

I was rope soloing outside corner to look for fixed gear this afternoon. I dropped my belay device and it bounced all the way down and out of sight. I just used clove hitches/figure eights as back ups on locking biners. There's many ways to skin a cat... just make sure that you "seek proper instruction and stuff" don't go dying. On a side note, anyone have a ATC guide for sale?


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