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Any suggestions on a first 5.13a lead?
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By J mac
Feb 9, 2010
Zermatt

Kai Huang wrote:
Anyone in front range has good beta for The Web at Eldo? 5.13ab, 25ft, 4 bolts, classic, with Zero approach... sounds like a perfect project for me.


I have never tried it so I have no beta on the moves but I was there last weekend and there are project draws on it. Seems like the perfect time to try it!


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By mattjbudd
From West Valley, UT
Feb 9, 2010
Device Ignitor Left Crux.

Pinklebear wrote:
I can't remember the name of the climb, but the 5.13a/b right above the National Forest sign, off the road in Maple Canyon about halfway between the Box and the parking for the Minimum Wall, etc, seemed like the coolest climb at the grade there to me. Also very good is the 5.13a out the center left side of the Compound, high up the road in Maple. 14 bolts long, total pumpfest.


Sounds interesting. I'll have to check it out next time I'm in Maple.


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By Arnold Braker
From golden, co
Feb 9, 2010

Kai Huang wrote:
Anyone in front range has good beta for The Web at Eldo? 5.13ab, 25ft, 4 bolts, classic, with Zero approach... sounds like a perfect project for me.


The web is awesome but not to be underestimated. Though the "business" of the route is indeed over in 25 feet, they pack quite a punch. It feels like pretty standard 13b IF you find the right beta. I think it would be a very difficult(but very proud) first 13.


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By Pinklebear
Feb 9, 2010
Pinklebear

mattjbudd wrote:
Sounds interesting. I'll have to check it out next time I'm in Maple.


Good climbs for sure. If you visit Colorado, Beer Run (Rifle) and Milk Bone (Flatirons) get my votes as the two best 13a's.


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By Kai Huang
From Thornton, CO
Feb 9, 2010

Arnold Braker wrote:
The web is awesome but not to be underestimated. Though the "business" of the route is indeed over in 25 feet, they pack quite a punch. It feels like pretty standard 13b IF you find the right beta. I think it would be a very difficult(but very proud) first 13.



Awesome and Proud is what I want to hear. I can deal with powerful or technical moves but just want to make sure there is no show stopper move that's too far to reach for a shorty like me, 5'5-6 with 0 index. What time of the day is good for this route? What routines do people do to warm up for it?


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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 9, 2010

Pinklebear wrote:
I can't remember the name of the climb, but the 5.13a/b right above the National Forest sign, off the road in Maple Canyon about halfway between the Box and the parking for the Minimum Wall, etc, seemed like the coolest climb at the grade there to me.


Captain Fantastic or somesuch. Big pulls between big holds on a steep wall, then techi tiny crimpin and pimpin to the chains.

Sounds like Hell and the Diablo wall fit your style very well.

I would do a lot of 4x4s at the Front, and make the trek down to Momentum to see how you are stacking up after a few months.


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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Feb 10, 2010
Yoda

Kai Huang wrote:
Anyone in front range has good beta for The Web at Eldo? 5.13ab, 25ft, 4 bolts, classic, with Zero approach... sounds like a perfect project for me.


Dude, the Web is 13b. And not an easy one. IMO. Try White Lies also in Eldo.


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Campton, NH
Feb 10, 2010
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.

Pinklebear wrote:
I can't remember the name of the climb, but the 5.13a/b right above the National Forest sign, off the road in Maple Canyon about halfway between the Box and the parking for the Minimum Wall, etc, seemed like the coolest climb at the grade there to me.


Would that be Captain Bullet? If so, I agree that it would be a perfect first 13.


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By steve edwards
From SLC, UT
Feb 10, 2010

I thought Captain Bullet was HARD for an a. Maybe because it was in the sun but that finish is full on.


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Campton, NH
Feb 10, 2010
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.

steve edwards wrote:
I thought Captain Bullet was HARD for an a. Maybe because it was in the sun but that finish is full on.



It did too. It gets a slash grade, right? 13a/b? If it's your first, no one will downgrade it to a 12. :)


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By Blake Cash
Feb 10, 2010

Hank Caylor wrote:
Dude, the Web is 13b. And not an easy one. IMO. Try White Lies also in Eldo.



agreed. don't let the height fool you...25 Ft just means you have a lot, and I mean A LOT, harder rock climbing to do in a much shorter distance.

For the front range...I'd say Vasodilator, for my money, best 13a on the front range. Snakewatching in the Flatirons is a dead vertical 150 foot crimpfest (if that's what you're into).

Utah...Sprout is fun, but chipped and drilled all to hell. No single move is a 5.13 move, maybe mid 5.12. it's long too...you'd build some endurance just working the route.

I'd second Jeremy, go to IC, aid up something rad, work it on TR, send and be way proud of yourself. Or wait til summer and go to Mill Creek and climb Aesthetics (13a)....and let me know if you think it's 13a or 14a......


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By mattjbudd
From West Valley, UT
Feb 10, 2010
Device Ignitor Left Crux.

grayhghost wrote:
Captain Fantastic or somesuch. Big pulls between big holds on a steep wall, then techi tiny crimpin and pimpin to the chains. Sounds like Hell and the Diablo wall fit your style very well. I would do a lot of 4x4s at the Front, and make the trek down to Momentum to see how you are stacking up after a few months.


Yeah I need to start to do the 4x4s. The summer is getting close.


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By mattjbudd
From West Valley, UT
Feb 10, 2010
Device Ignitor Left Crux.

Blake Cash wrote:
agreed. don't let the height fool you...25 Ft just means you have a lot, and I mean A LOT, harder rock climbing to do in a much shorter distance. For the front range...I'd say Vasodilator, for my money, best 13a on the front range. Snakewatching in the Flatirons is a dead vertical 150 foot crimpfest (if that's what you're into). Utah...Sprout is fun, but chipped and drilled all to hell. No single move is a 5.13 move, maybe mid 5.12. it's long too...you'd build some endurance just working the route. I'd second Jeremy, go to IC, aid up something rad, work it on TR, send and be way proud of yourself. Or wait til summer and go to Mill Creek and climb Aesthetics (13a)....and let me know if you think it's 13a or 14a......


My hands are sweating just thinking about it.


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By Kai Huang
From Thornton, CO
Feb 10, 2010

Hank Caylor wrote:
Dude, the Web is 13b. And not an easy one. IMO. Try White Lies also in Eldo.



Which one is White Lies? i can't seem to find it on MP nor the new guide book...


and how does The Web compare to Tunnel Vision?


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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 10, 2010

5.13a is a good grade for aesthetic beauty. Here is some shots to get you motivated.
All of these are within 4-5 hours from Salt Lake.

5.13a
5.13a


5.13a
5.13a


5.13a
5.13a


Secret 13
Secret 13


excommunication
excommunication


paper crane
paper crane


secret 13 area <br />
secret 13 area


crush the skull
crush the skull


5.13a
5.13a


el nino
el nino


tacos diablos
tacos diablos


5.13a
5.13a


golden eye
golden eye


pinkus organic
pinkus organic


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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Feb 10, 2010
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.

Those are some great photos. How about adding the route names and locations... Awesome!!!

- Luke


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By Blake Cash
Feb 10, 2010

Kai Huang wrote:
Which one is White Lies? i can't seem to find it on MP nor the new guide book... and how does The Web compare to Tunnel Vision?



Tunnel Vision is light duty 13b and worlds easier than the web.


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By mattjbudd
From West Valley, UT
Feb 10, 2010
Device Ignitor Left Crux.

grayhghost wrote:
5.13a is a good grade for aesthetic beauty. Here is some shots to get you motivated. All of these are within 4-5 hours from Salt Lake.


grayhghost, it looks like most of these climbs are in Millcreek Moab. Where can you get a good guide book of Millcreek?


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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 10, 2010

Oddly Millcreek is in the minority there.

1.) Uinta mountains
2.) Henry mountains
3.) Lander limestone
4.) redrock
5.) castle valley
6.) millcreek
7.) redrock, same route
8.) millcreek
9.) uintas, same route
10.) yosemite, el cap
11.) Alta
12.) uintas
13.) lcc
14.) Henry mountains


The best way to experience millcreek is without a guide book, or just buy the beer and I will show you when the snow melts.
12.)


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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Jan 1, 2011
Yoda

Kai Huang wrote:
Which one is White Lies? i can't seem to find it on MP nor the new guide book.


www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/eldorado_canyon_s>>>

It's the same route.


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By Matthew P
From Saint George, UT
Jan 6, 2011

If you come to Saint George/VRG

Joe Six Pack 13a

Description
on the planet earth wall shares first two or three bolts with red neck! one of the best routes for the grade anywhere!! stellar rock lots'o climbing and killer movement make up this gem.. watch out for the thumb move at about 80ft. truly amazing!

Protection
Bolts, but many people quake in there boots on this sporty pitch!!

mountainproject.com/v/arizona/virgin_river_gorge/planet_eart>>>


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By Ty Gregory
From Salt Lake City
Jan 10, 2011

You should go to to Chadbourne and climb some of the most righteous choss the wasatch has to offer. I recommend Beam and Coke, though not 5.13a it is 12d, so its close. Four deep in the Hoopti is 13a, I've never tried it but it has poison ivy at the base and a hornets nest halfway to the top. BADASS!


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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Nov 29, 2012
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.

Bump for some sweet photos!


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By Cowboy Roy
From SLC, UT
Apr 24, 2014

are those photos of blue @ the Hoop?


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By Cowboy Roy
From SLC, UT
Apr 24, 2014

any infor on the henry mountain route it looks amazing


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