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Any suggestions on a first 5.13a lead?
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Feb 3, 2010
Yosemite Valley..
mattjbudd wrote:
Dude, I'm going to post this quote up all over my house, car, office, and anywhere I can think to motivate me to accomplish it, and spite you. Sweet, I am SO stoked.

Right on Brotha! Way to turn a negative into a positive!
Rob Kepley
From Westminster,CO
Joined Dec 28, 2005
1,154 points
Feb 3, 2010
Just below Thunderbolt Peak
hankhelms wrote:
I really don't- I'm just calling it like i see it, but being that most of your ticks are well under .11, the hardest routes on your to-do list prior to this thread contained Black Monday, and Misery and you wrote under Right Pile just this past september "Still far from redpoint" and under License To Thrill "Still need to work it more"...most breaking .13 leaders warm up on your actual projects. i'd say you've you got a little more than just work to do. Set your sights high, but don't be ridiculous. Go work Isotoner Moaner first, or Naked Nebula. Go try the Padded Cell or Left Pile. You want a good .13, how about Hell? but I bet there's no way in hell your getting up that. Save your bail biners for worn out anchors. And don't knock it till you try it, Dogwood is hard, like pro hard. That is if you can find it.


This is EXACTLY the type of comment that inspires me to achieve and then say "I did it, jerk."
Colin Simon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 30, 2009
432 points
Feb 3, 2010
hankhelms wrote:
I really don't- I'm just calling it like i see it, but being that most of your ticks are well under .11, the hardest routes on your to-do list prior to this thread contained Black Monday, and Misery and you wrote under Right Pile just this past september "Still far from redpoint" and under License To Thrill "Still need to work it more"...most breaking .13 leaders warm up on your actual projects. i'd say you've you got a little more than just work to do. Set your sights high, but don't be ridiculous. Go work Isotoner Moaner first, or Naked Nebula. Go try the Padded Cell or Left Pile. You want a good .13, how about Hell? but I bet there's no way in hell your getting up that. Save your bail biners for worn out anchors. And don't knock it till you try it, Dogwood is hard, like pro hard. That is if you can find it.


Are you saying that all the climbs at Dogwood are pro hard?
zachjones
From Woods Cross, UT
Joined Sep 18, 2009
1 points
Feb 3, 2010
Device Ignitor Left Crux.
zachjones wrote:
Are you saying that all the climbs at Dogwood are pro hard?


LOL
mattjbudd
From West Valley, UT
Joined Sep 17, 2007
441 points
Feb 3, 2010
jarthur wrote:
I'd agree this climb has a bit of everything. It's a hell of a lot steeper than one thinks from looking at it from the road. It's overhanging, technical dihedral, and a boulder problem going to the anchors. Now that the hold after the crux at the top broke I don't think many people are arguing 13a vs 12d anymore. It feels pretty solid at 13a.



Vasodialator in Boulder Canyon is, in my opinion, way better than Sonic Youth. Though sonic is a heck of a fun route.

If you like Rifle, Das Fruit Machine is a very doable(and fun!) 13a especially if your tall. Unfortunately, it's also been called 12d(but what "a" grade there hasn't?)
Arnold Braker
From golden, co
Joined Jun 28, 2007
289 points
Feb 3, 2010
Device Ignitor Left Crux.
Arnold Braker wrote:
Vasodialator in Boulder Canyon is, in my opinion, way better than Sonic Youth. Though sonic is a heck of a fun route. If you like Rifle, Das Fruit Machine is a very doable(and fun!) 13a especially if your tall. Unfortunately, it's also been called 12d(but what "a" grade there hasn't?)


Too bad it's all the way in Colorado. :(
mattjbudd
From West Valley, UT
Joined Sep 17, 2007
441 points
Feb 4, 2010
what kind of routes are you good at?
what part of route climbing do you enjoy the most?
how far are you willing to drive?
what is your favorite type of rock?
Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Oct 26, 2006
396 points
Feb 4, 2010
pilon fracture
Goliath, Datil, UT.. but maybe its just enduro .12+? Wayne Crill
From an Altered State
Joined Jan 5, 2003
454 points
Feb 4, 2010
I agree that the Enchanted Tower stuff is great but it's pretty far. Plus it's endurancy. If you're going to do Hell then I'd suggest a pyramid of bouldery routes. Most of those Big routes qualify. Add the two Speed Trap and two Broad's Fork 12's to your list. The latter are hard for their grades, and all of them are very good. I'd probably start cycling 4X4s into your training (they're made for Hell)and start ticking off--or at least getting on--all the short steep routes in AF you can find. Working your way towards Hell in AF, I'd suggest Beeline (or hive, the short often wet thing at Hard Rock), Naked Nebula (easy but the right angle) and training on the two routes to its right (an easier 13a than Hell and a 12d). Teardrop is good, too. A little longer but easy to a hard boulder problem, so it fits the program. steve edwards
From SLC, UT
Joined May 3, 2004
551 points
Feb 4, 2010
Go to Indian Creek and find a 13. Optimator is awesome, Ruby's Cafe (soft), Tricks are for kids is great as well. You can french free any of them and work them on top rope to your hearts content. Jeremy H
Joined Jul 25, 2007
314 points
Feb 6, 2010
Device Ignitor Left Crux.
grayhghost wrote:
what kind of routes are you good at? what part of route climbing do you enjoy the most? how far are you willing to drive? what is your favorite type of rock?


I'm better at short and steep. I love big static movements. I'm better with crimps than slopers. I don't want to drive too far. I love limestone, conglomerate, and sandstone.
mattjbudd
From West Valley, UT
Joined Sep 17, 2007
441 points
Feb 6, 2010
Device Ignitor Left Crux.
steve edwards wrote:
I agree that the Enchanted Tower stuff is great but it's pretty far. Plus it's endurancy. If you're going to do Hell then I'd suggest a pyramid of bouldery routes. Most of those Big routes qualify. Add the two Speed Trap and two Broad's Fork 12's to your list. The latter are hard for their grades, and all of them are very good. I'd probably start cycling 4X4s into your training (they're made for Hell)and start ticking off--or at least getting on--all the short steep routes in AF you can find. Working your way towards Hell in AF, I'd suggest Beeline (or hive, the short often wet thing at Hard Rock), Naked Nebula (easy but the right angle) and training on the two routes to its right (an easier 13a than Hell and a 12d). Teardrop is good, too. A little longer but easy to a hard boulder problem, so it fits the program.


This is excellent advice. Thanks a lot! American fork canyon is amazing. I'll have to add those to the tick list. I was thinking about hitting up all of broads fork routes.
mattjbudd
From West Valley, UT
Joined Sep 17, 2007
441 points
Feb 6, 2010
Tree Spring Wall, Changing, P.R. China
Many are sport climbs that should not be missed. The trad climbs are Ophir Broke, Cat Daddy, Red Planet and Sphinx Crack. The Beast at the Wasteland, Rifle, CO; Colors of Emotion, A Virgin No More and Cassandra, Penitente Canyon, in the San Luis Valley, CO; Ophir Broke above the East Buttress on upper right wall on the Main Wall, Ophr Wall, Telluride, CO; HydroPower, Falls Wall Telluride, CO; Pink Taco, Golf Wall in Durango, CO;Muscle Dynamo on the Main Pinnacle, Hermosa Cliff in Durango, CO; Cat Daddy on the Clandestine Cliff in the Sandia Mts. in Albuquerque, NM, Goliath, Enchanted Tower, Datil, NM; The Pulse and Total Joker, The Pit, Flagstaff, AZ; Unpopular Tweak and Back in the Saddle at the Main Wall , Jack's Canyon, AZ; Galactic Hitchhiker at the Planetarium near the Church Wall, Sedona AZ (between the Village of Oalk Creek and the city limits of Sedona, AZ proper) and the Red Planet on the Fin formation, Dry Creek Canyon in West Sedona, AZ; Fine Parish Lady, Eagle Canyon, Cochiti Mesa, NM; Tanks for the Mammaries below the Pigs in Space Buttress, When Legends Die and Walking Spanish Down the Hall on West Mountain, Hueco Tanks State Park, El Paso, TX; Twelve Pack Link and The Thing on the Beer Block, El Rito Sport Cliff, El Rito, NM; Evil Alchemist and Death Drives a Stick on the Main Wall and Dragon Slayer and Muscle Hustle on the 45 Degree Wall, the Dungeon, Los Alamos, NM; Sphinx Crack on the Sphinx formation, South Platte, CO. John E. Duran
From Beijing, Haidain distrtict, P
Joined Jul 9, 2008
534 points
Feb 8, 2010
Device Ignitor Left Crux.
Thanks John! Wow, I have a lot to choose from! mattjbudd
From West Valley, UT
Joined Sep 17, 2007
441 points
Feb 8, 2010
Bad Sock Puppet
Hey mattjbudd, you should definitely try Melting(.13a) and Burning(.13b) in hell cave. The draws are down right now for the winter, but come warmer weather they'll be back up and you'll have the advantage of being able to bail at any moment. Don't let idiots tell you that you can't pull it off cause that's what everyone tells me...all people who don't climb that hard simply because they don't push themselves.

Some more advantages to climbing in hell cave is that it's as steep as it gets meaning anything else you get on will feel slabby. Also since AF Canyon is a little sandbagged if you can gets a .13a there then go to RRG and kick some ass! I'm not sure what you're climbing at now, but I'd be happy to recommend some good tester 5.12's to you.
Bad Sock Puppet
Joined Jun 22, 2008
595 points
Feb 8, 2010
Our less than official sponsor!
I know it's borderline but El Diablo just right of the Hell Cave is really good. The crux comes right at the start (bouldery) and after that it's just an endurance romp to the chains. Even if it is only 12d/13a it's a good first one. I almost nailed it on my 4th try. Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
Joined May 18, 2007
2,274 points
Administrator
Feb 8, 2010
Llama Races- Fairplay, Colorado
Christian "crisco" Burrell wrote:
I know it's borderline but El Diablo just right of the Hell Cave is really good. The crux comes right at the start (bouldery) and after that it's just an endurance romp to the chains. Even if it is only 12d/13a it's a good first one. I almost nailed it on my 4th try.


Dude, to try try Burning or Melting is a burly first 13, I could name names on the flailing attempts. Back in the day if you got burned at the Snowbird Comps, you ended up at the Hell Cave. Many tears were wept....

PM me for for real beta.
Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
594 points
Feb 8, 2010
Device Ignitor Left Crux.
I think i've narrowed it down to a few climbs: Melting, Hell, or Teardrop. El diablo sounds great, but I want a lagit .13. Two separate friends at the front have suggested teardrop (based on my climbing style) who both, by the way, think I should easily be able to get a 5.13 this year. But I also want to get Hell just to spite the pessimist from earlier in the post. Maybe I'll just get them both. mattjbudd
From West Valley, UT
Joined Sep 17, 2007
441 points
Feb 9, 2010
I've always thought about doing a .13 sport route, but it sounds like so much effort to do all those routes leading up to one... I think when I do it, I'm just going to go bolt some chosspile in the middle of nowhere that nobody will ever visit again, send it once, and then call it .13c. That way, nobody will ever come along to downgrade it. sevrdhed
Joined Oct 23, 2006
157 points
Feb 9, 2010
Device Ignitor Left Crux.
sevrdhed wrote:
I've always thought about doing a .13 sport route, but it sounds like so much effort to do all those routes leading up to one... I think when I do it, I'm just going to go bolt some chosspile in the middle of nowhere that nobody will ever visit again, send it once, and then call it .13c. That way, nobody will ever come along to downgrade it.


LOL sounds like a plan!
mattjbudd
From West Valley, UT
Joined Sep 17, 2007
441 points
Feb 9, 2010
Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim 12/4/09, 42-ish mil...
It is a fun journey, I just concluded. For 14 months, I quit my job, trained basically every day and just send last week. If anyone downgrades it, I will have to retire again and try again. jhump
Joined Dec 21, 2005
322 points
Feb 9, 2010
Zermatt
I also don't climb 13 but the web in Eldo is short and steep and zero approach. Its on my someday list for sure. J mac
Joined Oct 8, 2008
102 points
Feb 9, 2010
Finishing Rimfire, 13b, at the Sanctuary in Sinks
No one has mentioned the dolomite around Lander, Wy, yet. Don't know if it is too far from where you live. 13- is arguably the best grade at Sinks and the Iris. For short and bouldery you have the Urchin, Cow Reggae, When I Was a Young Girl, the Heavens, Last Man Standing, Tres Hombres among others. There are also longer, pumpier things like Nirvana, the Throne, the Successor, Mr. Majestik, Pretty Hate Machine, and Dogs of War. Tom Rangitsch
From Lander, WY
Joined Jan 10, 2007
1,069 points
Feb 9, 2010
Pinklebear
I can't remember the name of the climb, but the 5.13a/b right above the National Forest sign, off the road in Maple Canyon about halfway between the Box and the parking for the Minimum Wall, etc, seemed like the coolest climb at the grade there to me.

Also very good is the 5.13a out the center left side of the Compound, high up the road in Maple. 14 bolts long, total pumpfest.
Pinklebear
Joined May 8, 2006
3,239 points
Feb 9, 2010
Anyone in front range has good beta for The Web at Eldo?

5.13ab, 25ft, 4 bolts, classic, with Zero approach... sounds like a perfect project for me.
Kai Huang
From Thornton, CO
Joined May 9, 2008
62 points


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