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Any new moderates with short or flat approach at Red Rocks
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By Ming
Mar 16, 2013
At Railay East Beach in Thailand

So my mentor and always reliable climbing partner is getting to an age in which steep hikes and hard climbs are just getting too hard for him. He has been climbing for about 35 years and has done pretty much every classic moderate at Red Rocks - a few several times over. We have been doing annual trips out for the past 7 and last year he swore it'll be the last time he lead a bunch of newbies up Cat In The Hat. I feel bad that I left him with the newer members of the group while I get the chance to do the nice cool climbs.

So my question to the community is this - are there any new, nice moderates (up to 5.8) multipitch routes that has either a fairly flat or short approach? Also after seeing him back off (for the first time, I was shocked) poor pro section of a 5.8 route last year the ideal route would be a nice G/PG rated route with good rock and pro. It's hard to find that info. He has done most of the classic moderates in the Handren book, so my guess is pretty much most of the classic routes up to 2007.

Thanks in advance.


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By Ksween
From Wakefield, RI
Mar 16, 2013

I would recommend MysterZ as the approach is flat as can be. But you cannot rap the route and you would have to walk out of Juniper canyon. Unfortunately the plums with the shortest approaches tend to be picked first. Newer routes tend to be a bit of a hike.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 16, 2013

I'd get in touch with Larry DeAngelo- he's on this site, and does a fair bit of new routing. If anyone knew what was new in the park, it'd be him.

Also, have a look at First Creek Slabs- flat as a pancake approach, but about an hour long. The descent is rap back to the base and hike out.


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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Mar 16, 2013
Dow Williams, 2011

Today, Danny and I just took his dad, Jorge Urioste (76yrs old), up a new route that was very good....3 pitches, mostly 5.8, some 5.9, but very mellow and excellent rock, Smooth Operator, 200' to the west of the huge dark boulder in Juniper. 3 pitches, 2 double rope raps...approx 400' of climbing.


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By Patrick Maun
Mar 16, 2013

First Creek Slabs are a great area to bring new climbers. We really like warming up on Rising Moons. Easy cruiser route that brings you up to the upper slabs. 3 pitches with each one being different than the last. Just a 5.5 but fun. The descent can be done with one rappel with 2 60's. I keep meaning to do something easy on the upper slabs on warmup day but haven't gotten around to it yet.
www.mountainproject.com/v/rising-moons/105788558

Another fun 5.8 is Purblind Pillar. I seem to recall the approach being pretty straightforward and fairly flat until the final approach. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Fun route that never gets too stiff but watch where you build your belay stations - I managed to wander off-route twice.
www.mountainproject.com/v/purblind-pillar/105821892

I agree that Geronimo is another fun but pretty well known so he's probably done it multiple times. I think that approach is a little more strenuous.

I'd love to hear more about Smooth Operator, doesn't appear to be on the site yet. I'm headed out week after next and have also done most of the moderates and would love to add some new ones.


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By brat
From Dolores, CO
Mar 16, 2013
Celebrating on Intersection Rock, JTree.

Hot Flash in First Creek.

Try the stuff up on Windy Peak, the approach is uphill but quick.

I thought Purblind Pillar had some not-so-well-protected bits.


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By Sherri Lewis
From Sequim, WA
Mar 17, 2013
Pausing to pose with the amazing cracks there.

Another vote for Smooth Operator. It is listed on MP as "Sweet Crude," except that you start slightly uphill of the Sweet Crude rotten chimney , For Smooth Operator, you start behind a tree at the base of a thin crack. Where it ends traverse up and right across slab
to a comfy stance. From there, follow beta for P2 and P3 of Sweet Crude. www.mountainproject.com/v/sweet-crude/106189708

It is a gem of a climb.

Rawlpindi and Big Horn, 5.7 and 5.8, are slightly off the beaten path as far as crowds go, even though they are just to the left of Birdland.

Peyote Power is a 5P 5.9 with only one 5.9 move, the rest of the pitches are 5.7. It's next door to Dark Shadows.


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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Mar 26, 2013
Dow Williams, 2011

Here is that Smooth Operator I told you about...


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By Doug Foust
From Henderson, Nevada
Mar 27, 2013
new toy

Andrew and I put up a new route last saturday that is just a bit up canyon of smooth operator: www.mountainproject.com/v/saddle-up/108054319


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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Mar 27, 2013
Dow Williams, 2011

And there is Earnest Stemmingway (easier than Smooth Operator) 100' down canyon from Smooth...so now you have four short and easy trad routes side by side starting with Rose Hips, with a relatively easy/flat approach...with a tenth of the folks to compete with compared to Olive Oil or Geronimo (and just as good)....spread out folks


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By Doug Foust
From Henderson, Nevada
Mar 27, 2013
new toy

Dow Williams wrote:
And there is Earnest Stemmingway (easier than Smooth Operator) 100' down canyon from Smooth...so now you have four short and easy trad routes side by side starting with Rose Hips, with a relatively easy/flat approach...with a tenth of the folks to compete with compared to Olive Oil or Geronimo (and just as good)....spread out folks


1/10th...I think you are being generous. I bet you Olive Oil will get 50 times the people on it in the next month than those 4 routes together :)


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By Rudeboy
From North Las Vegas, Nevada
Mar 27, 2013
Paiute wall scout mission, red rock nevada. March 2012.

Go to "whats new" near the top of the Red Rock page. Narrow down the search to 1 year, routes and first ascents. Several parties have been busy. Most of the routes probably havent seen a second ascent!


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By Ming
Apr 23, 2013
At Railay East Beach in Thailand

Thanks everyone! Looks like Jackrabbit Buttress is the winner here.


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By Derek Doucet
Apr 23, 2013

First Creek Slabs are a good suggestion. I'm not sure I'd recommend Purblind Pillar, though. It's stout in the grade, and the standard descent, while not particularly long, is a knee-buster gully. Great route, though. Easily as good as Tunnel Vision or Group Therapy.


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Apr 23, 2013
Thumbtastic

If you can't walk for shit Red Rock is not the place to visit. Try Saint George, the Prophesy Wall should fit the bill a lot better. Nothing here that's truly large is all that close to the parking lot. 30 minutes minimum for anything noteworthy and moderate.


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By Ming
May 2, 2013
At Railay East Beach in Thailand

Did MysterZ today. My friend has a bum ankle so it took 1:20 to get to the base and 1:50 to hike out from the top, but the climbing was great and he was grinning ear to ear. Did the climb itself in 5 extremely leisure hours and car to car in about 8.5 hours. We love the route and would highly recommend it - I think it's a great starter 5.6 route. 3 stars for sure. Thanks all!


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By Ming
May 2, 2013
At Railay East Beach in Thailand

Did MysterZ today. My friend has a bum ankle so it took 1:20 to get to the base and 1:50 to hike out from the top, but the climbing was great and he was grinning ear to ear. Did the climb itself in 5 extremely leisure hours and car to car in about 8.5 hours. We love the route and would highly recommend it - I think it's a great starter 5.6 route. 3 stars for sure. Thanks all!


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