By Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Feb 13, 2013
| That can't be... everything at Red Rocks is soft! :) | 
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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Feb 13, 2013
| Clearly, well shit. If it's rated 10c or d in the guidebook, 5.9+ is fair...right? |
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By WilliamButierez
From Tucson, Az
Feb 13, 2013
| My pride is hurt for you dan! I can't believe I call you my partner... don't worry we all forget and make mistakes. I forgot my testarosas on lemmon on sunday at the base of R-4... |
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By Ddub979
From Tucson, AZ
Feb 13, 2013
| HAHA, I was out at Panty wall and saw this
Panty Mime 5.10c, @ Panty wal
It looks intense!
@Willbutts you are my slab master friend, sounds like i need to drag you out there! |
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By Thomas Beck
From Las Vegas, Nevada
Feb 13, 2013
| Ddub979 wrote: On 2/10 I was out climbing in sand stone quarry. I was able to get in a few proud 11 red point leads but on the hike out we decided to do... www.mountainproject.com/v/friction-face-panty-waist/10708959>>> Friction face panty waist.... Wow I got my ass kicked. Guess I need to learn slab. Any way it got way too late and way too cold, I was being a little girl and bailed. I left a bail Binner and three brand spanking new drawls.... Ugh so sad. I know this is a crazy long shot but if any one grabs them I'll happily Reimburse you for your troublea and mailing cost.
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Friction Face is a little serious. I got a pretty good idea from your post where you backed off. You were likely wise to back off. Only a bail biner would have been required. And ease off on the slurs. Don't whine about your abandoned gear. It's immature.
Maybe you'll get lucky but I wouldn't hold my breath.
No karma involved...a good portion of my rack is booty. I know my partners don't want to know that. Same for a lot a other Vegas locals. When I was a Valley Rat we ran circuits Mondays and Tuesdays. Ha! totally shameless! |
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By Thomas Beck
From Las Vegas, Nevada
Feb 13, 2013
| " i wonder what the hell 5.13 slab would even look like."
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hard 5.11 slab is very delicate; vertical or close to vertical.
On a less than 10 ton psyche day you will feel like you are gonna pitch every moment and on every move. On a good day it won't even feel like the same climb.
On You Tube you could watch Tommy Caldwell on thin slab. Or Lynn Hill lead "Changing Corners" |
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By grog m
Feb 15, 2013
| John D - If you're not worried about it take all the run outs you want above it and pray it holds for you even though it isn't fundamentally yours. Have a little integrity and don't let your climbing partners use it. Because if shit goes bad, that blood is on your hands for climbing on unethical equipment. |
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By Skat B
From Down Rodeo
Feb 15, 2013
| What I usually do with unclaimed gear is make perma draws on sport routes and leave the bail biners on the webbing anchors of trad routes. |
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By David Appelhans
From Lafayette
Feb 15, 2013
| Greg McKee wrote: John D - If you're not worried about it take all the run outs you want above it and pray it holds for you even though it isn't fundamentally yours. Have a little integrity and don't let your climbing partners use it. Because if shit goes bad, that blood is on your hands for climbing on unethical equipment.
Your karma sounds real just. Someone completely unrelated to what you call theft dies because of his friends supposed unethical behaviour?? That seems equitable. Death penalty to your friends if you take booty!
Your cosmic fairness seems pretty unfair, wouldn't you agree? |
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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 15, 2013
| Slab is a great equalizer because it requires technique more than strength and lots of people have a tendency to get the latter without investing any time on obtaining the former. For many, it is an epiphany that being a well rounded climber means much more than just going to the gym and clipping sport routes on the weekends.
I remember a conversation I overheard a long time ago in Camp 4 where some guy was talking to a friend about a number of hard offwidths he climbed. This was BITD where there wasn't alot of wide gear to sew it up like is available now, so you had to know your stuff if you were going to send.
So anyways, to paraphrase, his friend says 'wow, how do you climb all those hard o/ws?' and he replies, 'it's technique. imagine how hard climbing a hand crack would be if you didn't know how to hand jam.' Face climbing is the same way. If you never do it, it's going to feel hard. Do it enough and it'll get way easier. |
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By pfwein
Feb 15, 2013
| Thomas Beck wrote: " i wonder what the hell 5.13 slab would even look like." ---------------------------------- hard 5.11 slab is very delicate; vertical or close to vertical. On a less than 10 ton psyche day you will feel like you are gonna pitch every moment and on every move.
Agree it's delicate, don't agree hard 5.11 slab is necessarily vertical or close to vertical. For example, I've had my ass handed to me on 5.11 slab boulder problems at Mt. Woodson that are way less less than vert. And while I'm no slab master, I don't particularly suck at them either.
At some level (maybe hard 5.12, depends on the rock I guess), super hard "slab" will be close to vertical. When the rock is more featured (edges), hard slab will be steeper. |
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By Nick Zmyewski
From Newark, Delaware
Feb 15, 2013
| Greg McKee wrote: John D - If you're not worried about it take all the run outs you want above it and pray it holds for you even though it isn't fundamentally yours. Have a little integrity and don't let your climbing partners use it. Because if shit goes bad, that blood is on your hands for climbing on unethical equipment.
I've found plenty of gear on routes that people have left behind. If people leave gear on a climb, except for special circumstances and perma-draws, it's fair game.
Also, the gear isn't more likely to fail just because he found it and you call it unethical. If he lets a climbing partner use the gear and they don't inquire about its history, then that's their responsibility and decision to trust him. Everyone is responsible for themselves at the end of the day. |
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By John D
Feb 19, 2013
| Greg McKee wrote: John D - If you're not worried about it take all the run outs you want above it and pray it holds for you even though it isn't fundamentally yours. Have a little integrity and don't let your climbing partners use it. Because if shit goes bad, that blood is on your hands for climbing on unethical equipment.
hahaha, that's awesome! I'll be praying that my ethics don't mess up physics, though I kind of wish it could, I'd probably have done better in those philosophy classes in college. |
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By cassondra
From las vegas, NV
Feb 20, 2013
| Jon O'Brien wrote: try sumo greatness...
FFPW is well bolted (protected)in comparison to SG (although Frictiony Face is a known sandbag.) Head over to Dean's List to up the anty. |
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By Peteoria
Feb 21, 2013
| Greg McKee wrote: John D: That is incredibly bad climbing ethics.
Whoa whoa whoa, booty is different than stealing gear!
Every guy likes to get a little booty now and again, especially after a rainstorm. But getting booty is so widely accepted that it's called "booty."
Breaking into a car to steal gear is called "stealing gear" and if you are aware of anyone who has ever done this, please publicize their name, address, SSN, passwords, etc. so we can kick them in the nuts and give their identity to a much more worthy soul. |
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