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any help with my pride?
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Feb 13, 2013
Third pillar of dana descent.
That can't be... everything at Red Rocks is soft! :) Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined May 8, 2011
259 points
Feb 13, 2013
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do
Clearly, well shit. If it's rated 10c or d in the guidebook, 5.9+ is fair...right? Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Joined Mar 14, 2010
688 points
Feb 13, 2013
My pride is hurt for you dan! I can't believe I call you my partner... don't worry we all forget and make mistakes. I forgot my testarosas on lemmon on sunday at the base of R-4... WilliamButierez
From Tucson, Az
Joined Aug 6, 2010
42 points
Feb 13, 2013
Go time..
HAHA, I was out at Panty wall and saw this

Panty Mime 5.10c, @ Panty wal

It looks intense!

@Willbutts you are my slab master friend, sounds like i need to drag you out there!
Dan W.
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jan 13, 2009
69 points
Feb 13, 2013
beck on limestone
Ddub979 wrote:
On 2/10 I was out climbing in sand stone quarry. I was able to get in a few proud 11 red point leads but on the hike out we decided to do... mountainproject.com/v/friction... Friction face panty waist.... Wow I got my ass kicked. Guess I need to learn slab. Any way it got way too late and way too cold, I was being a little girl and bailed. I left a bail Binner and three brand spanking new drawls.... Ugh so sad. I know this is a crazy long shot but if any one grabs them I'll happily Reimburse you for your troublea and mailing cost.

------------------------------
Friction Face is a little serious. I got a pretty good idea from your post where you backed off. You were likely wise to back off. Only a bail biner would have been required. And ease off on the slurs. Don't whine about your abandoned gear. It's immature.

Maybe you'll get lucky but I wouldn't hold my breath.

No karma involved...a good portion of my rack is booty. I know my partners don't want to know that. Same for a lot a other Vegas locals. When I was a Valley Rat we ran circuits Mondays and Tuesdays. Ha! totally shameless!
Thomas Beck
From Las Vegas, Nevada
Joined Feb 5, 2006
866 points
Feb 13, 2013
beck on limestone
" i wonder what the hell 5.13 slab would even look like."
----------------------------------

hard 5.11 slab is very delicate; vertical or close to vertical.

On a less than 10 ton psyche day you will feel like you are gonna pitch every moment and on every move. On a good day it won't even feel like the same climb.

On You Tube you could watch Tommy Caldwell on thin slab. Or Lynn Hill lead "Changing Corners"
Thomas Beck
From Las Vegas, Nevada
Joined Feb 5, 2006
866 points
Feb 15, 2013
Hueco
John D - If you're not worried about it take all the run outs you want above it and pray it holds for you even though it isn't fundamentally yours. Have a little integrity and don't let your climbing partners use it. Because if shit goes bad, that blood is on your hands for climbing on unethical equipment. grog m
Joined Aug 29, 2012
14 points
Feb 15, 2013
St George
What I usually do with unclaimed gear is make perma draws on sport routes and leave the bail biners on the webbing anchors of trad routes. Skat B
From Down Rodeo
Joined Jan 9, 2012
629 points
 
Feb 15, 2013
Imaginate
Greg McKee wrote:
John D - If you're not worried about it take all the run outs you want above it and pray it holds for you even though it isn't fundamentally yours. Have a little integrity and don't let your climbing partners use it. Because if shit goes bad, that blood is on your hands for climbing on unethical equipment.


Your karma sounds real just. Someone completely unrelated to what you call theft dies because of his friends supposed unethical behaviour?? That seems equitable. Death penalty to your friends if you take booty!

Your cosmic fairness seems pretty unfair, wouldn't you agree?
David Appelhans
From Medford, MA
Joined Nov 11, 2007
350 points
Feb 15, 2013
Slab is a great equalizer because it requires technique more than strength and lots of people have a tendency to get the latter without investing any time on obtaining the former. For many, it is an epiphany that being a well rounded climber means much more than just going to the gym and clipping sport routes on the weekends.

I remember a conversation I overheard a long time ago in Camp 4 where some guy was talking to a friend about a number of hard offwidths he climbed. This was BITD where there wasn't alot of wide gear to sew it up like is available now, so you had to know your stuff if you were going to send.

So anyways, to paraphrase, his friend says 'wow, how do you climb all those hard o/ws?' and he replies, 'it's technique. imagine how hard climbing a hand crack would be if you didn't know how to hand jam.' Face climbing is the same way. If you never do it, it's going to feel hard. Do it enough and it'll get way easier.
Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
137 points
Feb 15, 2013
Thomas Beck wrote:
" i wonder what the hell 5.13 slab would even look like." ---------------------------------- hard 5.11 slab is very delicate; vertical or close to vertical. On a less than 10 ton psyche day you will feel like you are gonna pitch every moment and on every move.


Agree it's delicate, don't agree hard 5.11 slab is necessarily vertical or close to vertical. For example, I've had my ass handed to me on 5.11 slab boulder problems at Mt. Woodson that are way less less than vert. And while I'm no slab master, I don't particularly suck at them either.
At some level (maybe hard 5.12, depends on the rock I guess), super hard "slab" will be close to vertical. When the rock is more featured (edges), hard slab will be steeper.
pfwein
From Boulder, CO
Joined May 7, 2006
91 points
Feb 15, 2013
the frozen topout during a winter ascent
Greg McKee wrote:
John D - If you're not worried about it take all the run outs you want above it and pray it holds for you even though it isn't fundamentally yours. Have a little integrity and don't let your climbing partners use it. Because if shit goes bad, that blood is on your hands for climbing on unethical equipment.


I've found plenty of gear on routes that people have left behind. If people leave gear on a climb, except for special circumstances and perma-draws, it's fair game.
Also, the gear isn't more likely to fail just because he found it and you call it unethical. If he lets a climbing partner use the gear and they don't inquire about its history, then that's their responsibility and decision to trust him. Everyone is responsible for themselves at the end of the day.
Nick Zmyewski
From Newark, Delaware
Joined Jun 2, 2011
132 points
Feb 19, 2013
Safety first
Anyway, that chick sounds hot Sarita Mendez
From Tucson
Joined Jun 11, 2012
5 points
Feb 19, 2013
Greg McKee wrote:
John D - If you're not worried about it take all the run outs you want above it and pray it holds for you even though it isn't fundamentally yours. Have a little integrity and don't let your climbing partners use it. Because if shit goes bad, that blood is on your hands for climbing on unethical equipment.


hahaha, that's awesome! I'll be praying that my ethics don't mess up physics, though I kind of wish it could, I'd probably have done better in those philosophy classes in college.
John D
Joined Nov 24, 2010
21 points
Feb 19, 2013
try sumo greatness... Jon O'Brien
From Nevada
Joined Apr 21, 2009
509 points
Feb 19, 2013
Some post happy hour ice climbing under a full moo...
Ddub979 wrote:
I was being a little girl and bailed


Hope this helps your pride.

11-Year-Old Girl Shatters Climbing Records
Lee M.
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Dec 6, 2011
5 points
 
Feb 20, 2013
in repose
Jon O'Brien wrote:
try sumo greatness...

FFPW is well bolted (protected)in comparison to SG (although Frictiony Face is a known sandbag.) Head over to Dean's List to up the anty.
cassondra
Joined Nov 26, 2008
406 points
Feb 21, 2013
Greg McKee wrote:
John D: That is incredibly bad climbing ethics.


Whoa whoa whoa, booty is different than stealing gear!

Every guy likes to get a little booty now and again, especially after a rainstorm. But getting booty is so widely accepted that it's called "booty."

Breaking into a car to steal gear is called "stealing gear" and if you are aware of anyone who has ever done this, please publicize their name, address, SSN, passwords, etc. so we can kick them in the nuts and give their identity to a much more worthy soul.
Peteoria
Joined Jun 6, 2010
62 points


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