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any help with my pride?
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By Dan W.
From Tucson, AZ
Feb 12, 2013
Go time..

On 2/10 I was out climbing in sand stone quarry. I was able to get in a few proud 11 red point leads but on the hike out we decided to do...
www.mountainproject.com/v/friction-face-panty-waist/10708959>>>
Friction face panty waist.... Wow I got my ass kicked. Guess I need to learn slab. Any way it got way too late and way too cold, I was being a little girl and bailed. I left a bail Binner and three brand spanking new drawls.... Ugh so sad. I know this is a crazy long shot but if any one grabs them I'll happily Reimburse you for your troublea and mailing cost.


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By Rob Dillon
Feb 12, 2013

Dunno 'bout you, but lotsa little girls can climb circles around me so before you go insulting half the population of the planet begging for your bail gear back you might consider the effect of your language.


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By Ian Stewart
Feb 12, 2013

Why did you have to leave the 3 draws?

I don't think there are many little girls on this site. You should be fine...


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By John Keller
Feb 12, 2013

Yeah, the little kids (girls and boys) in Boulder lead 5.13 (face, slab and crack).


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By Brassmonkey
Feb 12, 2013
Brass monkey

Rob Dillon wrote:
Dunno 'bout you, but lotsa little girls can climb circles around me so before you go insulting half the population of the planet begging for your bail gear back you might consider the effect of your language.



Its a figure of speech. Life isnt a perfect politically correct vacuum. Shit you cant say anything anymore; people need to stop getting butthurt by everything people say. Chill out buddy, dont get your panties in a bunch. Am I allowed to say that?


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By Dan W.
From Tucson, AZ
Feb 12, 2013
Go time..

Haha, I'm sorry yes many girls can climb better then me. In fact a girl lead this route so beautifully. I was like eh, 5.8 what ever, I'll do it with my eyes closed. Karma got me and I chocked, no clue but my head just want in it. It's crazy how the human mind works. Anyway, the three draws are.... Two at the anchor and one on the last bolt. My partner (she) lead it, pulled the rope, then I went to clean it.... And then.... Ya well well all have our low moments. We had a 7 drive ahead of us that night and I just lost all motivation.


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Feb 12, 2013
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

Rob Dillon wrote:
Dunno 'bout you, but lotsa little girls can climb circles around me so before you go insulting half the population of the planet begging for your bail gear back you might consider the effect of your language.

Language gets much (if not most) of its power by the infrequency of it's use and the way that the people who react to it, react to it.


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By Dan W.
From Tucson, AZ
Feb 12, 2013
Go time..

PS, thanks Brassmonkey.


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By Rob Dillon
Feb 12, 2013

"Pussying out" is a figure of speech. "Towelhead" is a figure of speech. Et cetera. Does this mean that they're OK, just because we have a name for common phrases?

My panties aren't in a bunch, and rest assured I am not butthurt, but this stuff not only has an effect on people who hear it, but on their opinion of the speaker. So we all could perhaps consider how we want to be seen, even if oblivious to our effects on others.


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Feb 12, 2013
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

Face it man, you suck at slab climbing. I do too. Set your pride aside and work on your weaknesses for a bit and then come back to it. Hope you get your draws back.


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By Ian Stewart
Feb 12, 2013

Rob Dillon wrote:
"Pussying out" is a figure of speech. "Towelhead" is a figure of speech. Et cetera. Does this mean that they're OK, just because we have a name for common phrases?


"Towelhead" falls into the racial slur category more than being considered a figure of speech. Comparing "like a little girl" to "towelhead" is quite the stretch.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Feb 12, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

you're not alone, slabs always scare the shit out of me...I just picture my skin in a pile akin to grated parm at the ground. Slabs generally equal little or no gear, which still gets my goat


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By Rob Dillon
Feb 12, 2013

All of you are welcome to the phrase 'cried like Rob Dillon on a Cashiers Valley watergroove' if you like. Slabs are scary.


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By Dan W.
From Tucson, AZ
Feb 12, 2013
Go time..

HAHAHAH @Ben Brotelho this is all i can think about when climbing slab...

Cheeeeeessssseeeee


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By Dan W.
From Tucson, AZ
Feb 12, 2013
Go time..

@Andy Hansen Totally man! I suck at slab... Maybe i should have just posted this in the free gear thread. HAHAH


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By Woodchuck ATC
Feb 12, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Know how you feel..I hate slab, totally avoid it at all costs.


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By J Q
Feb 12, 2013
Me again!

Ddub979 wrote:
Any way it got way too late and way too cold, I was being a little girl and bailed. I left a bail Binner and three brand spanking new drawls.... Ugh so sad.t.



Are you sad that you were humbled or sad because you realize that you left a ton of gear unnecessarily? The constant leaving and taking of bail biners happens all the time, it is not a huge problem, think of it as a cheap lesson about your mental, physical, and technical limits. Shit, leave two of those suckers just to be safe, but don't miss the point of the thread, you don't need to leave three brand new draws on any single pitch climb because it got too cold. I am sure the next party appreciated it though, so consider this a lesson in gear intelligence instead of humility. Climbing either is humility or a soon departure, especially slab.


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By John D
Feb 12, 2013

this kinda reminds me of the time that my buddy and I stopped in moab to climb and get a break from being in the car since we were on the way to texas from yosemite. It was monday morning and when we pulled up to the crag, we saw a 5.8 slabby route with 2 draws hanging at the anchors. Our theory was it was the end of the day, and people (possibly gumbies) had been top roping the climb and pulled the rope without cleaning the anchor. The draws were shiny and new and way nicer than any draw on either of our racks.

We immediately knew which climb we were doing first :) I still have my draw and smile when I clip it. We all contribute and collect booty, work on your footwork and slab technique; and smile that you have contributed positively to the booty pool, it'll come back around to you in time.


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By grog m
Feb 12, 2013
Hueco

John D: "We immediately knew which climb we were doing first :) I still have my draw and smile when I clip it."

That is incredibly bad climbing ethics. Furthermore, it is very bad/dangerous karma to climb on stolen climbing equipment. If you didn't earn it in a responsible/honest manner then you should think twice about clipping into that sucker. 'what goes around, comes around'


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By Maurice Chaunders
Feb 12, 2013
Colombian Crack

I disagree. What goes around comes around indeed. Sometimes you leave gear, sometimes you find gear. If you bail on gear, it's gone. And I wouldn't consider it stolen nor bad ethics to take it. Now, bad ethics to choose a route based on bootying gear?? Meh, no comment. But I'd grab it if I saw it.


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By John D
Feb 12, 2013

It's bad ethics to find gear abandoned at the top of a climb and take it? I'd say leaving it is almost littering.

We would have climbed the route anyways, and if the owner had showed up while we were there, or had left a note at the parking area, I probably would have left the draws. As it was, we showed up to an empty crag, saw 2 draws at the top of a route, and cleaned them, how is that bad karma? Nobody ever showed up to the crag while we were there (which was several hours in the middle of the day)


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By jellybean
Feb 12, 2013

Greg,"If you didn't earn it in a responsible/honest manner" did.


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By Dan W.
From Tucson, AZ
Feb 12, 2013
Go time..

@JQ I was sad because i was humbled on something that i "should" have done with my eyes closed, and because i let myself get into that situation. I have never left anything, i suppose i could blame my tools all day long, but what i have learned is at the end of the day it is no ones fault but the mechanic. Your comment was incredibly insightful, Thank you for that.

@John D I can only hope my gear gets saved by some dirt bag that needs it. I have found my fair share of booty, and as sad as it is admitting it i suppose this is my time to give back....


I am climbing nothing but scary slabs for the next month, i think i have proven most can jug haul up a 5.11, but not everyone can climb featureless slab.


as a side note i wonder what the hell 5.13 slab would even look like...


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By David Appelhans
From Lafayette
Feb 13, 2013
Imaginate

Greg McKee wrote:
John D: "We immediately knew which climb we were doing first :) I still have my draw and smile when I clip it." That is incredibly bad climbing ethics. Furthermore, it is very bad/dangerous karma to climb on stolen climbing equipment. If you didn't earn it in a responsible/honest manner then you should think twice about clipping into that sucker. 'what goes around, comes around'


You know karma isn't real right? Society works better when we are all kind to each other, but there isn't a dangerous hex on those draws now. Give me a break.

I've got almost a whole trad rack of left gear just waiting to kill me. You might want to get out more if you think that is bad ethics...


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By R. Moran
From Moab , UT
Feb 13, 2013
REtro

Next time your in Red Rocks This thing will help school you-

Panty Mime 5.10c, @ Panty wall


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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Feb 13, 2013
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do

^^^ that thing is HARD for 5.10...harder than some of the Tuolumne slabs of the same grade I've climbed. Stout but fun


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