Any Experience with the Five Ten Anasazi Guide Shoes?

Some of you have any experience with the Anasazi Guide climbing shoes yet?

What size of crack these shoes will fit? Do you think this shoes can really be better for long trad days and crack at the same time? How about the general use of the shoe for slab, edging, smearing?

Here is the 5.10 link: fiveten.com/products/footwe…

Thanks!

gearinstitute.com/climbing/…

How about the fit? Someone have experience with these they can share?

I just got a pair of these and they fit my 11EE feet pretty well. They were initially quite tight in the toes but have stretched a little and I dialed in the lacing & they are now much more comfortable.

The C4 Stealth rubber is excellent and these shoes stick to tiny holds and smears better than other shoes I have worn. They are rather stiff, but I personally like a stiffer shoe and am amazed at the tiny holds/edges I am able to stand on with the toe of thess shoes. I haven't tried to use them on really thin cracks but it's hard to cram my big feet into those anyway...

They are moderately comfortable (for climbing shoes) and fit has improved with use. I sized them tight but going up a half size would have made toes more comfortable but my heels slipped a bit.

Not sure about durability but they are well made and appears they will hold up well.

Anybody else wearing these shoes?

I've put a decent amount of time on them this season and I'm in the middle of writing up a more detailed review, which I'll post up when completed. In the meantime, I thought it was worth weighing in on a couple questions in the thread.

First off, these are a new twist on an old standard. It's built on the Anasazi last, so the scaffolding of the shoe should be familiar to anyone who's used any of the predecessors in the Anasazi line. Unlike previous shoes, however, the guide is extremely stiff. Think stiffer than the TC Pro. This is great for the type of shoe it is: comfortable, solid on hand cracks (and larger) and hard to beat for longer days.

The stiff sole makes this shoe better at edging than most previous Anasazis that I've worn (and way better than the mocc), though there's a serious loss of sensitivity as a result, which can be a deal breaker for a lot of climbers. It's not quite up there with the Miura VS or Scarpa Instinct, but it does fine on most edges. If you want high end sport, however, look elsewhere. The low sensitivity and bulky toe box make pockets and super technical edges a challenge.

The stiffness (and high profile toe box) combine to make it extremely hard to get traction in straight-in finger cracks as you can't wiggle much toe in to get a bit more bite. If you're climbing granite, you may be able to get enough smearing with the rand and edging on features outside the crack, but I wouldn't take these shoes to Indian Creek unless you're only getting on 5.10 and below.

Slab is solid if you like edging your way up. If you're from the moccasym school of climbing where you paste rubber all over as much rock as possible to friction-paddle your way up, the guides are harder to work with. especially since you've given up a lot of sensitivity.

Heel hooking is fine in these shoes, but I honestly can't imagine who would be seriously considering purchasing an all-day moderate trad shoe and needs super techy heel hooking power from the shoe. I could be wrong here, but while this shoe is pretty awesome if you're doing lots of mileage both in and out of the gym, it's really not a good one-shoe-quiver for hard climbing.

Ultimately I agree with a lot of what is said in the gearinstitute link posted above, though I have to say I don't agree with the sentiment that edging is strong as a result of having enough room to curl your toes. If you're curling your toes in the anasazi guide, you're doing it wrong. This shoe needs to be sized appropriately such that you're toes are flat (or very slightly curled) but snug. The whole point of such a stiff sole is to give your calves and toes a break so you can climb for a long time and not have to put them in a vice so that you can edge.

Just my 0.02, interested to hear if others have had different experiences.

anyone else have experience with these? i am interested in fit (relative to street shoe, other fivetens, and other manufactures). how curled are your toes?

ben smith wrote:anyone else have experience with these? i am interested in fit (relative to street shoe, other fivetens, and other manufactures). how curled are your toes?

Ben, I had an ordeal over sizing. Mostly due to my assumption that a 12 is a 12 is a 12 when it comes to the FiveTen brand. Incorrect.

Long story short (and it is a long story), the 12 are a tight mofo on me, whereas moccs and the Anasazi VCS are just right. I had to go up a full size as a half didn't cut it, but they fit as described, with flat toes. If you can find them in store, try them and buy them.

ben smith wrote:anyone else have experience with these? i am interested in fit (relative to street shoe, other fivetens, and other manufactures). how curled are your toes?

I downsized a half size and my toes are pretty scrunched up. I can't wear them for ecxtended periods without a lot of toe pain. I tried my street she size but the heels felt loose. I have weird feet, so they may fit you just fine.

Try em on and see how they fit, like any other shoe...

I bought a pair of Stonelands VCS in a size 12 (my street shoes are 11 or 11.5) and they are really comfortable. I wear these for most climbs now.
Love the edging with the Anasazi Guides but kill my toes....

FYI- I've got a like new pair (2 pitches, still smell like new shoes) I'd sell for $95. They are size 9.5. PM if interested.

Most comfortable shoes ever! Size is identical to your street shoe in US sizing. They will stretch.

FWIW: I ended going up 1 or 1.5 size greater than my street shoe. I bought these with the intention of using them as a wide-crack and all-around shoe. They may stretch on me, but I wore them with socks yesterday at the gunks (38 degrees) and they performed well. I have never had a shoe this stiff, but it is great for crack climbing! Thus, I am happy with my purchase after sending the 12s (my street shoe size back).